Wanderlust Travel Magazine (UK)
Travel icon: Avignon, France
The Rhône-side city of Avignon is a great gateway to Provence and the perfect place to overdose on ancient history and modern joie de vivre
Historic and picturesque Avignon is the perfect gateway to Provence
Get orientated
Fields of lavender sway in the breeze like vast purple seas. Vineyards unroll down hills. The scent of seafood wafts on the air. Roman buildings bathe in the sun. Flamingos pose in the Camargue delta. From the balmy beaches in the south to the snowy Alps, Provence offers a wealth of experiences. But perhaps none are more tempting than those in Avignon.
The Avignon area has been occupied since the Stone Age, with the Greeks, the Romans, the Saracens and the Catholic church all leaving their marks. Today, the city’s skyline is dotted with grand palaces, fortresses and cathedrals – reminders that this French city was once the centre of the Roman Catholic world – while its warren of cobbled streets still has plenty of medieval charm.
To see the city at its most lively, visit in July, during the Avignon Festival, a diverse three-week programme of theatre, dance, music and arts. But whatever the time of year, Avignon’s alleyways, market halls, monuments and riverside seldom lose their atmospheric bustle and charm.
Getting there & around
British Airways flies direct from London Heathrow to Marseille (around two hours; from £97 return). Trains link Marseille Airport to Avignon (around 90 minutes).
The visit
Start early: get to the Palais des Papes, the Gothic building that dominates Avignon’s skyline, before the masses arrive. This dazzling palace, the seat of Western Christianity in the 14th century, has housed seven popes and almost palpitates with power. Explore inside its walls and its neat courtyard before heading to its grand neighbour, the 12th century Notre-dame des Doms basilica, which has a huge golden Madonna balancing on its tower.
Next, head to the Pont Saint-bénézet (aka the Pont d'avignon) to walk as far as you can along the arched medieval bridge, which ends abruptly in the centre of the river.
By this time, the old centre will be livening up, so soak up the atmosphere in the Marche les Halles, a vast market where you can fill up on cheese, sausages and seafood.
Lunch may be rich, but the culture is richer. Wile away the afternoon by admiring medieval masterpieces in the Musée du Petit Palais, fine arts and Egyptian artefacts in the Musée Calvet or contemporary works at the Collection Lambert.
Alternatively, rent a bike and pedal to Abbaye de St André in nearby Villeneuve to walk through the glorious gardens. Return to Avignon to reach the hillside terraces of Rocher des Doms in time to watch the sun set over the Rhône.
Avignon
Bordered to the north and west by the Rhône, Avignon is the chief city of the Vaucluse department and the gateway to Provence. It’s enclosed by an almost 5km-long wall, punctuated by 39 towers and seven gates. Within the walls thrives a culturally rich city with its own opera house, university, several foreign language schools and numerous theatre companies.