Wanderlust Travel Magazine (UK)
TRAVEL ICON WAWEL CATHEDRAL, KRAKÓW, POLAND
Perched on its namesake hill at the historic heart of Kraków, Wawel Cathedral is more than a picturesque place of worship. Discover how it has come to symbolise Poland...
Get orientated
“You cannot enter [Wawel Cathedral] without the internal tremor, without fear because it contains in it – as in almost no cathedral of the world – the enormous size, which speaks to us in all our history.” This is what Karol Józef Wojtyła, the Polish Pope John Paul II, said of Kraków’s cathedral in 1964.
Indeed, this grand cathedral, perched on Wawel Hill, has come to symbolise the entire nation, making it a key stop for visitors to Poland's southern city hub. Wawel Cathedral was built in the 14th century by King Władysław the Short. Over the next 400 years, it hosted every royal coronation bar two. As well as being a place of celebration, it is also a place of commemoration, with much of Poland's royalty, including its first female monarch, buried here.
But Kraków’s historical tremors rumble far beyond Wawel Hill. Travellers to the city won't just get a grounding in the nation's royal past and centuries of architecture, but in its cultural heritage too, whether that's popping a pierogi dumpling, checking out the Mloda Polska art scene or taking in the sobering history of its longstanding Jewish community.
Getting there & around
British Airways (ba.com) flies direct from London Heathrow to Kraków in just 2 hrs 30 mins; from £60 return.
The visit
Start with a walk around Wawel Cathedral’s eclectic exterior to see how it’s evolved: the gilded domes, slanted roofs and clock towers adorned with statues make for a striking contrast.
Entering the cathedral is like stepping inside a treasure chest, where the gilded altar seemingly emits light and the candles flicker. The ornate Baroque sarcophagi in the Royal Tombs are bound to catch your eye, as will the silver coffin that holds the relics of St Stanisław, the bishop of Kraków; likewise the intricately carvings of the Zygmunt Chapel. Climb the steps to take in the Zygmunt Bell – Poland’s largest with a diameter over two metres – and for a perspective across Kraków.
Once outside, admire the art in the royal castle next door and the views of the Vistula River; then walk east into Kazimierz to explore its synagogues, cemetery and quirky cafes, part of the city's Jewish heritage, rebuilt since the dark days of the Second World War.
Next, navigate north through the Okół district, with much of the original architecture of the Church of Sts Peter and Paul and Church of St Andrew still intact. End up at the Old Town's Market Square. Grab a craft beer or a coffee at one of the many bars and reflect on the buildings surrounding you – St Adalbert's Church dates back to the 11th century – and the stories that they tell. You might feel a tremor too.
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