Everyone’s a winner in this Raffles
Kate Fielder visits Singapore’s legendary hotel
IN THE build- up to my trip, every person I talked to muttered excitedly about stopping at Raffles Long Bar for a legendary Singapore Sling.
I found just the word ‘Singapore’ seemed to unleash the cocktail based chatter, which was music to my ears. But then, it’s pretty much a rite of passage upon visiting this destination.
I travelled from Manchester to SIngapore with Emirates, with a stop-over in Dubai – a long but comfortable flight.
Singapore is a destination unlike any other, a melting pot of cultures and history.
Modern Singapore was founded in the 19th century with a little help from Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles, a British statesman, who boldly flew the British flag on what was then a small fishing village surrounded by jungle. Development soon began and the jungle gave way.
Raffles Hotel – named after Sir Thomas – opened in 1887, founded by the Sarkie brothers from Armenia.
It started as a beachside bungalow and it’s hard to imagine sea views now, although the tropical gardens that occupy a quarter of the estate are a beautiful contrast to the bustling cityscape beyond.
I stayed in a Palm Court Suite: the rooms were huge, traditional yet sophisticated, and, with the wonderful gardens surrounding our block, it was a peaceful yet purposeful accommodation amidst this bustling area.
Skyscrapers stand proudly, brightly lit against more traditional architecture and temples. The old and the new sit side by side beautifully all over Singapore.
The humid atmosphere takes some getting used too, as do the ridiculously clean streets – there is an air of efficiency and order, yet it feels more exotic than sterile.
Pulling up outside Raffles Hotel is like stepping into something straight out of the movies. Its colonial elegance, along with the doormen on hand offering exceptional service, helps cement the refined reputation the brand has maintained over the years.
Locals and tourists alike easily fall in love with its endearing charm, and the all-important traditional English afternoon tea has queues outside the door; every weekend within the Tiffin Room is sold out.
Guests can also join resident historian Leslie Danker, for a weekly historic tour. What Leslie doesn’t know about Raffles simply isn’t worth knowing.
There are famous tales that have shaped this establishment, featuring celebrity guests, some immortalised in Raffles history with beautiful suites named after them – Rudyard Kipling, Ava Gardner and John Wayne.
Leslie happily reels off the ever-growing roll of A- listers who have fallen for the charms of this quintessential luxury hotel and, in turn, have helped contribute to the epic tale of this institution.
As I joined him for breakfast, he talked about his time at Raffles Singapore: starting with the maintenance team in 1972, he began flying through the ranks when management realised his passion and enthusiasm for hotel.
Leslie was a vital part of a major restoration project, finished in 1991, and worked closely with architects to ensure all modernisation was true to the history of the establishment.
With more restoration projects in the pipeline for 2017, one imagines he has another busy year ahead of him.
Venturing from the hotel, I discovered Merlion Park only a short walk away – and the 70-tonne, half-fish/half-lion statue is a must-see for tourists.
The body symbolises the area’s humble beginnings as a small fishing village and the head represents Singapore’s original name: Singapura, or ‘lion city’ in Malay.
Beautifully structured as part of the picturesque Marina Bay, with lots of bars and restaurants, it’s the perfect place to sit and relax and take in this vibrant city and its spectacular presence.
The world-famous Singapore Zoo was another trip out. Although it is a taxi ride outside of Singapore city centre, this is a brilliant space with very few bars or railings.
Cleverly designed enclosures keep the animals and visitors safe – I watched a magnificent white tiger staring back at me while it lazily licked its lips in the sweltering heat, with only a mound of what seemed like eye-level rocks between us.
Singapore is famed throughout Asia for its food and, although dining out at restaurants can be expensive, hawker centres or food courts are never very far away.
A very short walk from Raffles Hotel takes you to La Pau Sat – a hawker centre which has been in operation since the 1800s and serves all manner of culinary delights with varied Asian influences and at very reasonable prices.
Street food is big business in Singapore. Only last year a $2 chicken and rice dish became the first street food entry into a Michelin Guide – if you don’t mind a twohour-plus queue in the humidity with no air con, it must be the cheapest way to experience Michelin-starred food in the world!