A detour from the vineyard worth taking in the ‘sweet wine capital’
One of the great added advantages of wine tourism, is that it is not just about the vineyards and the winemakers, but discovering fabulous restaurants in wine regions which are there as much for the vineyard workers as for the visiting tourists.
Tucked away among the vines, these gems of culinary excellence may be grand affairs, such as the restaurant hotel of Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey, a Premier Grand Cru producer, or a much simpler affair, where a grilled entrecôte steak on an open fire reigns supreme.
Such a place is the Auberge
Les Vignes located in the heart of the tiny wine village of Sauternes, south-west of Bordeaux. Serving a daily three-course lunch menu priced at 16 euros (around £13.50 at current exchange rates), the clientele includes workers fresh from pruning vines, winemakers from the wineries, office workers dealing with international export orders, or sales directors from grand châteaux, all enjoying delicious fresh local cooking, washed down with a glass of local wine.
With a cluster of tables on the inside, the restaurant is dominated by a massive fireplace with constantly fed burning embers of logs and vine prunings, the latter giving particular flavour to the grilled meat or fish. The small, dedicated team running the Auberge are efficient and friendly, catering for the workers who need a quick turnaround in their lunch break, as well as the wine tourists, happy to linger over a three-hour lunch.
Sauternes is the sweet wine capital of the world, although it is surrounded by the vineyards of Graves, another prominent region of Bordeaux wines, making first class red and dry white wines. This is eminently reflected in the impressive wine list of the Auberge, which naturally has a wide selection of Sauternes, together with some 300 wines from the region. On visiting the cellar, accessed down a narrow flight of stone steps, I was amazed to learn some of the secrets hidden away.
The stock totals around 5,000 bottles, a worthy number of which even the most prestigious of restaurants would be proud. Several vintages of Château d’Yquem – number one sweet wine of the world – were present, together with bottles of 1929 Château Rieussec with a deep amber colour – the latter being part of the proud owner’s collection and not for sale. Some 60 different Sauternes are on offer, ranging in price from the very reasonable to the ‘second mortgage’ category.
Other more extensive menus are available, all of which are tremendous value, but I highly recommend a steak or sea bream grilled on the open fire as one of your dishes. High quality Sauternes is available by the glass, starting at an amazingly reasonable 5 euros – a must as an apéritif or with your dessert. A 2011 vintage of Castelnau de Suduiraut was only an extra 2 euros per glass. Sheer amber nectar. Dry white Graves and red Bordeaux is also served by the glass at similar prices, perfect with the grilled fish or meat.
The unassuming village restaurant of Auberge Les Vignes, surrounded by some of the top vineyards in the world, is worth a large detour whenever you may be travelling to visit the vineyards of the Bordeaux region. Just make sure you book in advance!