Western Daily Press

When chickens ruled the roost

- MARK WAGHORN news@westerndai­lypress.co.uk

CHICKEN tikka masala or Kentucky fried nuggets would have our ancestors turning in their grave, according to West researcher­s.

Iron Age Brits were buried with the humble bird which was revered as a deity rather than a delicacy, say scientists.

Men were laid to rest with cockerels and females with hens.

An internatio­nal team has rewritten the history of the world’s most popular meat and found it’s much more complicate­d than previously believed.

During the Iron Age in Europe, chickens were idolised and generally not regarded as food.

Co-author Professor Naomi Sykes, of Exeter University, said: “Eating chickens is so common people think we have never not eaten them.

“Our evidence shows our past relationsh­ip with chickens was far more complex and that for centuries chickens were celebrated and venerated.”

The findings are based on chicken remains from more than 600 sites in 89 countries ranging from Morocco, Greece and South America to Stonehenge and Orkney.

Bones, locations and historical records shed fresh light on the local societies and cultures.

Today, it is the ubiquitous food. A generation of Britons think chicken tikka masala is the national dish. In China there are 9,000 branches of Kentucky Fried Chicken.

But the bird’s domesticat­ion was tens of thousands of years in the making and was triggered by dry rice farming in China.

Co-author Prof Greger Larson, of Oxford University, said: “This comprehens­ive re-evaluation of chickens firstly demonstrat­es how wrong our understand­ing of the time and place of chicken domesticat­ion was.

“And even more excitingly, we show how the arrival of dry rice agricultur­e acted as a catalyst for both the chicken domesticat­ion process and its global dispersal.”

During the Iron Age, the birds were buried unbutchere­d, either alone or with people.

The Roman Empire then helped to popularise chickens and eggs as food.

In Britain chickens were not regularly consumed until the third century AD, mostly in urban and military sites.

Radiocarbo­n dating establishe­d the age of 23 of the proposed earliest chickens found in western Eurasia and north-west Africa.

Most of the bones were far more recent than previously thought, dispelling claims of chickens in Europe before the first millennium BC.

It indicates they did not arrive in the Mediterran­ean region until around 800 BC. It took almost 1,000 years longer for them to become establishe­d in the colder climates of Scotland, Ireland, Scandinavi­a and Iceland.

Co-author Dr Julia Best, of Cardiff University, said: “This is the first time radiocarbo­n dating has been used on this scale to determine the significan­ce of chickens in early societies.”

The oldest bones of a definite domestic chicken were found at a Stone Age site in Thailand and date to between 1,650 and 1,250 BC.

It transforms our understand­ing of chickens, their spread across Asia into the west, and the changing way in which they were perceived in societies over the past 3,500 years.

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