How to spend 48 hours in Porthcawl
There’s more to the seaside resort than donkey rides and fun at the fair
ONE of the great British seaside resorts in its heyday, miners came from the Valleys to Porthcawl for their summer holidays.
And while the era of Punch of Judy may have passed, the town still pulls in the visitors today.
There are seven beaches, an esplanade, traditional fairground, town museum and the Grand Pavilion theatre. And if you like the outdoors, you’ll be spoilt. Where is it?
The town is on the south Wales coast between Swansea and Cardiff, in the county borough of Bridgend. How do I get there?
The bad news is there’s no railway station - you can travel to Pyle (four miles away) and Bridgend (seven miles) - but your best bet is to drive.
There are also First Cymru bus routes from Swansea (two stops) and Cardiff (the direct X2 takes around 90 minutes), and it’s a 45-minute drive from Cardiff Airport. Where to stay
There’s no shortage of places to stay, whatever your budget.
For a start, it’s home to the massive Parkdean Holiday Park at Trecco Bay, where you can stay in a caravan or lodge.
If you like camping, sites to park up your motorhome or pitch a tent include the Hi-Tide at Sandy Bay, where they host free fireworks displays in the summer and are known for tribute and cabaret nights.
Or for a more peaceful setting, try Brodawel Camping Park, on the outskirts of Nottage.
Prefer a hotel? You’ll get some of the best views across the Bristol Channel at the three-star Fairways Hotel (West Drive, king with breakfast from £90) from its recently refurbished orangery.
Or stay at a luxurious guesthouse like Foam Edge (9 West Drive, double with breakfast from £90), which has a top Tripadvisor rating, great views and well-rated breakfasts.
Closer to town, boutique bed and breakfast Olivia House (44 Esplanade Ave, double with breakfast from £85) is an Edwardian townhouse, where you could land yourself a roll top bath.
Air BnB offerings include charming 200-year-old cottage the Nook (From £99 per night), with inglenook fireplaces and stone floors, accommodating four guests. What to eat and drink
Definitely fish and chips. There are plenty of outlets competing for your custom - and every local will have their own favourite.
Join the queue at Beales (2-3 Eastern Promenade), stroll up Station Hill to Finnegans (16 New Road), or if you’re in town, there’s Well Street Fish & Chips (13-14 Well Street).
For Italian gelato, head to Pietro’s (32 Esplanade), or enjoy a cappuccino with a view from inside the glass Piccolo Bar on the seafront itself.
When the sun’s shining, bag a seat on the terrace of the Waterfront pub (27-29 Esplanade), which is a great spot for people watching.
When night draws in, head a few doors up to Cosy Corner Lounge (33 The Esplanade) for a bespoke G&T. The restaurant and cocktail bar is winning rave reviews for dishes like Welsh lamb, rib-eye steaks and fish. They also do a good breakfast and Sunday lunch.
While at 19 Mary Street , there’s traditional Spanish tapas from boquerones and piquillos peppers to braised ox cheese and albondigas, and a drinks menu specialising in mojitos and sherry.
If you’re in the mood for a curry, there’s only one option but it’s a good one, the Jaipur (34 Esplanade). Where to shop
If you love rooting through charity shops, head to the main shopping street, John Street.
You’ll also find independent boutiques like The Closet (3 Well St) for women’s fashion, Koko (20 Well Street) for jewellery and Bliss (50 John St) for homeware.
At surf shop Porthcawl Marine (20 New Road), you’ll find all the gear for surf life, from wetsuits to boards, as well as the local tide times.
If you’re putting together a picnic, Home and Colonial (64 John Street) sells homemade treats from Welsh cakes to scrumptious scotch eggs.
A recent addition to town is seafood deli The Fishmonger’s Cat (14 John Street).
Other shops to visit include the RNLI shop (Eastern Promenade, near Porthcawl Pier) for nautical gifts and clothing sold to support the charity.
And if you’re a keen gardener check out the The Vineries nursery (263 New Road), run by local florist AJ Guttridge. When to go
Elvis fans should visit on September 22-24 during Porthcawl Elvis Festival when the town goes ballistic for the King and you’ll find an impersonator crooning on every corner. If you’re not, then stay away!
If you’re planning a visit over Christmas, head to Coney Beach mid-morning to watch the locals take their traditional dip in the chilly sea.
The Christmas morning swim has been running for 50 years come snow or rain, and if you’re brave enough, you’re welcome to join them.
Newton beer and pop festival is the town’s biggest outdoor music event. It’s held on the village green and in 2017, it’s happening during the summer bank holiday, August 26.
Things to do
1. Walk the Wales Coastal Path
There are plenty of walking routes, and you can head east or west along the rocky coastline.
For an afternoon walk, it’s three miles from the prom to Sker Point, over grassy Locks Common (check out the Miami-style houses on your right), through surfers’ favourite Rest Bay, along a wooden boardwalk to Pink Bay, named after the glow of pebbles sloping down to the sea.
Sker Point is the town’s most westerly sands and at low tide you can see a memorial to the crew of the SS Santampa and Mumbles Lifeboat at Sker Point.
There are also great walks from Newton Beach to Ogmore, and at Kenfig Nature Reserve. 2. Tee off at one of the UK’s best golf courses
You can see the sea from every hole at the prestigious Royal Porthcawl , where you could be tested by the wind.
Built in the late 19th century, it has hosted the Walker Cup and Welsh Championship. There are time frames every day when visitors can play (18 holes from £130).
Also welcoming visiting players is the Grove (18 holes from £16pp) and scenic links course Pyle and Kenfig (from £60pp).
3. Spend an afternoon at the beach
From sandy to rocky, and bustling to remote, there are seven very different beaches to explore.
Fly a kite, search for crabs in the rock pools or ride the waves on a bodyboard.
Busier Coney Beach has donkey rides for children and is in front of the fairground, whereas surfers and locals tend to head for the golden sands of Rest Bay, which has been awarded Blue Flag status.
At Newton Beach, you’ll see powerboats and jetskis, and its long sands are a popular place for dog walkers and horse riders.
There’s also Trecco Bay, Sker beach, Pink Bay and the seafront beach, known locally as “the Tarmac” because its flood defences. 4. Take a surfing or paddle board lesson
Lessons are held all year round. A two-hour lesson including equipment with Porthcawl Surf School at Rest Bay starts from £30pp.
You can also have a go at trickier stand-up paddle boarding in the calmer waters of Coney Beach and Newton Bay. 5. Join the parkrun
It has grown in popularity, and now you’ll spot hordes of runners along the seafront every Saturday morning at 9am for a 5km race against the clock.
It’s free and suitable for all levels of fitness, but they do ask that you register first. 6. Take a #benchselfie Yes, Porthcawl is home to the
world’s first selfie bench.
At least that’s what the council claimed to bemused locals, when they installed two seafront benches with great views of… the road.
Don’t forget to hashtag your pictures on Instagram with #selfiebench.
7. Walk the pier
Obviously not when there are gale force winds.
You’ll recognise this iconic landmark from the national newspaper front pages.
Photographers flock to Porthcawl to capture spectacular pictures of the waves breaking whenever there’s a storm.
On a calmer day, take a walk right to the end, where it’s likely you’ll find some fishermen. In the height of summer, you’ll spot local children “pier-jumping” when the tides in. 8. Sink a pint on a village green
If it’s a sunny day, spread out on one of the town’s village greens.
Nottage, easily walked from town, is surrounded by three historic village pubs, the Rose and Crown , the Swan Inn and the Farmers Arms . All serve food.
While at Newton Green, you’ll find the Jolly Sailor and Ancient Briton .
Here, the green sits in front of the beautiful, medieval St John’s Church.
There’s also a children’s playground with an historic well that’s said to be “magical”, and it’s a twominute walk to Newton beach.
9. Explore the coast on a fat bike
A shared cycle path now runs all the way from Rest Bay to Sandy Bay.
But you can also go off-road on a fat bike. It has oversized tyres to make it easier to ride on soft, unstable terrain like sand and mud. It’s a great way to explore the coastline.
Porthcawl Bike Hire (Buccaneer Complex, Mackworth Road) offer fat bike hire as well as guided tours for half or full-day adventures (£20 for half-day hire or £55 for a half day tour).
10. Travel on the world’s last seagoing paddle steamer
The Waverley has been sailing across the Bristol Channel for 70 years.
You can take a day trip from Porthcawl pier to the Devon seaside town of Ilfracombe this September.
Check the timetable at Waverley Excursions.co.uk.
11. Visit one of Wales’ best wildlife habitats
See a wide variety of rare and endangered species of plants and animals at Kenfig Nature Reserve , including rare orchids, golden plovers and tufted ducks.
There are bird hides, a large natural pool and a visitor centre.
There are plenty of huge sand dunes to sledge/roll down, which are said to hide a lost medieval town and castle below.
Plus it’s opposite thistoric 16th century inn, The Prince of Wales.
And if you’ve got children...
Bring your scooters as the promenade is lovely and flat, with plenty of icecream stops.
You’ll probably have no choice but to visit Coney Beach funfair (seasonal), once your little ones spot the flashing lights of the Beach Party swinging back and forth, as you drive into town.
It’s a small fairground, a little faded compared to what it once was, but you’ll find the classics like bumper cars and waltzers to a ghost train.
Treat yourself to a bag of fried doughnuts and look out for value deals for days when rides cost £1.
Crafty Little Creations (2 Esplanade House) is a cafe where you can join in pottery painting experiences and craft sessions.
There’s playgrounds at Griffin Park and a skate park at Heol-y-Goedwig, which caused a stir because of its interesting shape .
You can also use facilities as a day visitor (payable) at Parkdean Holiday Park inlcuding a pirate-themed indoor swimming pool, an outdoor splash pad, Jungle Jim’s soft play area and adventure golf.
Further afield?
Margam Country Park, with its castle, orangery and deer park, is a 15-minute drive away.
As is Bridgend Designer Outlet , where you can pick up designer labels like Ted Baker, Tommy Hilfiger, Levis and Calvin Klein Jeans at discounted prices.
You’re within easy distance of Swansea and Cardiff for day trips, as well as the Glamorgan Heritage Coast for more beautiful coastline.