YOU, RICA!
NEW DIRECT FLIGHTS MEAN THAT COSTA RICA IS EASIER THAN EVER TO EXPLORE. DOMINIC SMITHERS VISITS THREE OF THE COUNTRY’S TOP ECO TOURIST DESTINATIONS
1 FINCA ROSA BLANCA
NESTLED in the lush hillside, overlooking Costa Rica’s capital, San Jose, my first stop on this epic trip was the eco-friendly hideaway Finca Rosa Blanca.
There was a sense that the resort is really someone’s home – each room is filled with artwork created by the owners, Glenn and Teri Jampol.
The coffee-mad couple have run the boutique resort for more than 30 years.
On our first day we were up bright and early to make the ascent to the top of the Irazu Volcano – some 3,420 metres up – close to the city of Cartago.
Mid-way through the steep climb our guide, Erik, informs the group that one of the neighbouring volcanoes had only recently erupted and was still active.
As we crept up the side of the mountain, passing slanted football pitches and stilted houses, this did nothing to ease my trepidation.
Rising into the clouds, my breathing became that little bit heavier.
When we made it to the top, the sun was piercing through what little cloud cover was left and it was an incredible sight. We made our way across the gravel track and the crater almost sneaked up on me, revealing itself slowly as I moved closer and closer.
Sadly we weren’t able to see the famous green lake inside the Diego de la Haya, which means that I definitely have a reason to go back.
Back down on earth we were able to enjoy a more relaxed evening.
First we tasted Finca’s renowned organic coffee, then took our seat at the chef’s table to see how the resort’s incredibly varied menu, sourced from its organic garden, shaped up.
After my fill of fine wine and fine food I certainly slept well, ready for the next stop on our whirlwind tropical adventure.
2 PACUARE LODGE
WORTH every minute of the four-hour drive it took to get there – we managed to pass the time with a healthy dose of sloth-spotting along the way – Pacuare Lodge is like nowhere else.
One of the two ways you can reach the resort is by river, more specifically, white water rafting – not for the faint-hearted.
I’m never one to turn down a challenge, though, and when we arrived at the bank of the Pacuare River we went through the safety instructions.
A total of 52 rapids are littered along this stretch of the Pacuare River – fortunately we didn’t have to do them all – I would still be there today.
Tentatively we took off down the narrow ravine; my nerves on edge, there was no turning back.
We saw see it ahead, waiting. Moving faster and faster the raft jerked sharply, down into the river, as the rush of water crashed over us, before the dingy charged back up to the surface.
Yet between each of the eight or so nerve-wracking rapids there was time to take everything in.
Surrounded by thick rainforest the sounds of the wildlife; birds and monkeys, echoed through the ravine.
Eventually we floated alongside Pacuare Lodge, which sits snugly along the water’s edge.
Built in 1995 it forms part of the Barbilla Biological Corridor and borders the land of the Nairi Awari indigenous community – some of whom work at the resort.
Offering experiences from treks into the rainforest to relaxing treatments, Pacuare Lodge stretches across 340 hectares of protected rainforest and has the perfect balance of luxury and adventure.
But still on a high from the rafting, I decided to go for more adventure.
This time we took to the tree tops and tackled the resort’s zip line tour.
Hooked in by the trusty – yet again, seemingly cavalier – instructor, I was suddenly let loose, sweeping through the thick canopy,
Trying desperately not to spin out of control I eventually managed to compose myself and again enjoy the breathtaking scenery.
The views stretched across to the other side of the river as the mountainside cut a sharp figure, silhouetted by the sun.
If spectacular views are what you are looking for then this is the best seat in the house.
3 LAPA RIOS
THE final leg of our incredible journey took us all the way down to the tropical coastline of the Osa Peninsula.
After landing at the tiny air strip in Peurto Jimenez, we made our way to Lapa Rios Lodge.
Made up of just 17 private bungalows, it is surrounded by primary and secondary rainforest, in Central America’s last remaining lowland tropical rainforest,
overlooking the Golfo
Dulce.
The southern tip of the country is home to some of the country’s most special and endangered animals; pumas, jaguars and scarlet macaws.
I think most of them were living outside my bedroom.
The echoing cries of the howler monkeys were definitely one of the more unusual alarm clocks I’ve had, but certainly the most effective.
This was just my first taste of the rich and varied wildlife that call the peninsula home.
After filling up on breakfast, I was ready for the first activity of our stay, the nature trail.
We jumped into the back of a pickup truck and were led up a dirt track into the primary rainforest.
Deeper and deeper, the light suddenly faded as thick, arching mahogany branches blocked the sun. We were then led from the safety of the main road and tentatively stepped over the threshold, into the unknown.
Howlers, still crying, were accompanied by the sight of twitching branches as spider monkeys leapt through the treeline. In single file we crept through the dense forest, taking care not to stand still for too long.
Keeping our eyes well and truly peeled we even managed to spot the delicate webs of the golden orb spider and the bright green colouring of the poison dart frog.
And this is just one of the activities on offer; another reason to make a speedy return to this