Sets sail, quite literally, on a cruise with a difference
NEIL McDONALD
IT WAS 6.35am as I stood, waiting, on the gently swaying wooden deck of the Royal Clipper sailing ship in the Mediterranean. Propelled slowly forward by a faint breeze, the great ship came to life as crew members cleaned the decks and bridge officers checked our course and speed.
The slap and creak of sailing lines and the flutter of sails sounded overhead, along with the splash of waves against the bow, but I was focused on a single spot against the horizon and then it happened.
A faint glow became brighter and brighter before the sun rose quickly into the sky.
That initial sunrise glow spread, warming my heart as well as painting the sky magical hues of orange and blue before spilling towards me across the water, highlighting the wave tops on the way. It was breathtaking, a sight that I didn’t want to take my eyes from, but that also compelled me to look around and ask myself if this was really happening.
Was I really on the deck of a sailing ship, surrounded by such beauty? A week on board eventually convinced me I was, and it was a week packed with countless magical moments.
My wife Pam and I had joined the Royal Clipper at Cannes for a cruise to Rome via several Mediterranean islands.
The famous French resort is hardly short of things to look at, but even then – moored offshore – the elegant lines and masts of the Clipper caught the eye.
Before too long we were taken out and welcomed on board by Captain Sergey, before heading for our cabin.
One deck up the first-class passengers were enjoying extra space and a balcony, but our cabin was more than enough for the two of us with the double portholes providing plenty of light over a comfortable double bed.
After unpacking, we started to get our sea legs with a stroll around the ship.
At a little over 200 passengers and 100 staff, the Clipper was a lot smaller than some of the mammoth cruise ships nowadays. Anyone worried about seasickness on a smaller ship would have nothing to worry about in my experience, as the ship was steady throughout the cruise.
The size of ship also fostered a real sense of camaraderie between you and your fellow guests, as well as the always smiling and friendly crew who took great care of us. For instance, whereas a cruise ship would have four or five restaurants or dining rooms, the Clipper has just one luxurious one.
While enjoying the fantastic food, you were on a different table with different people almost every night. Before long, conversations were started and friendships were forged with fellow passengers from different countries that would last throughout the voyage.
On our first evening, those conversations continued at the Tropical Bar up on deck to watch the sailaway, where the huge sails were unfurled by the crew as Conquest of Paradise by Vangelis boomed over the loud speakers.
Under a full moon with the lights of Cannes twinkling in the distance, the canvas caught the wind and we edged into the night.
It brought to mind thoughts of Nelson, of Hornblower, of Britannia ruling the waves – an emotional end to day one.
As our journey continued, each following day blended comfortably into the next.
Despite the luxurious surroundings, there was an informal air with passengers able to pop onto the bridge alongside the captain or climb onto the netting over the bow. Others ventured up into the crow’s nest.
With blue skies overhead and the Med rolling gently, we would make a lunchtime arrival at each destination which allowed plenty of time for breakfast, to sleep in, or to chat and drink at the bar.
We would then board the tender boat if we were offshore to be ferried in, where you did have to be certain of your footing on occasion.
Again, the number of passengers played in the Clipper’s favour as we were able to explore each port or historic town without them being overwhelmed by thousands of people.
The history of places such as Bastia on Corsica was on show on every street, with an imposing citadel usually looming above on a nearby hillside. Pam and I especially enjoyed a tour around Porto