Discovers a pirate treasure on a location staycation in Cornwall
ANTHONY WOOLFORD
IT is fitting that Portloe is regarded as one of the hidden gems on Cornwall’s coastal map. Where Port Isaac is famous for ITV’s Doc Martin and BBC’s period drama Poldark makes the most of stunning vistas throughout the county, Portloe can rightly lay claim to being the forerunner when, back in 1949, Disney chose the tiny fishing village to film scenes for its celluloid masterpiece Treasure Island.
Some 13 years earlier, the village nestled between Mevagissey and St Mawes was chosen to shoot Forever England starring John Mills, a war story with Portloe doubling for the Mediterranean.
In 1991, Channel 4’s The Camomile Lawn was shot in the village and, 20 years later, Anna Friel, amongst others, visited to shoot the film Irish Jam, with Cornwall donning the hue of the Emerald Isle.
Portloe received one of its best critiques when Sir John Betjeman said that it was: “One of the least spoiled and most impressive of Cornish fishing villages.”
It’s hard to disagree with the esteemed poet, writer and broadcaster when you wind your way down through the Roseland peninsula and come across an unspoiled spot where the hills open up to reveal a small, strikingly beautiful cove.
And the heart and soul of the village and jewel in its crown is the 17th century smugglers’ inn, The Lugger Hotel, which sits snugly into the apex of the cove.
It has 24 bedrooms and three bespoke private cottages that ooze charm from every porthole. I stayed in the one-bedroomed Beach Cottage offering breathtaking panoramic views over the cove and so close to the sea that you could almost shower in the spray of the surf.
But you’d probably best leave that to the shower inside with its frisbee-sized head or, for those who prefer leisurely soaks, the freestanding bath in the bedroom.
Afterwards you can make the most of gazing out over the idyllic coastal views in the bathrobe and slippers provided.
The ground floor of the cottage features a lounge decorated in light tones, its cream and wood interior offering a nod to the Cornish fishermen in fixtures and fittings.
The kitchen has a handy portable fridge and stone sink while upstairs the bed is large, incredibly comfy and bedecked with the finest linen.
Each night, during the turn-down service, we were left a hot chocolate sachet and marshmallow in a tall glass mug and, during the day, the most delicious chocolate chunk cookies and hand-made truffles awaited our return.
Nearby Cobb Cottage takes up to six guests, while the Middle Cottage sleeps two and boasts a private terrace that offers the best view over the harbour, providing a haven even on the dankest of winter days.
Watching the waves rolling in from the English Channel and crashing up against the rocks from within the warm and snug surroundings of our cottage held a magical charm of its own.
The two televisions were rendered redundant by the nature show unfolding a pebble’s throw away.
The two-AA Rosette restaurant on site wrings every last ounce out of Portloe’s views. On the stormiest of days, I was told, the waves have been known to crash against the ground floor kitchen windows.
With such a close proximity to the salty spray, The Lugger pays homage to the fruits of the sea with the best of local fish and produce dominating the menu.
Being a long-standing pescatarian I went for a sea bass starter and sea bream main course. Both were cooked to a tee while my carnivore partner opted for the pork main course and was delighted, declaring it was one of the best pieces of pig she’d devoured in her life.
Table service, like the reception staff, is relaxed and attentive.
Afterwards, you can retire to the Lugger’s lounge and plant yourself on one of the large sofas next to a cosy log fire.
A table service breakfast is offered in the restaurant – in the summer, you can dine on the terrace, too – with a selection of cereals, muesli and granola, cold meats, cheeses,