How our lives shaped our bracelets
CHARMS of many forms have existed since prehistoric times, having been first discovered in Africa and Europe, and were likely to have been originally used as talismans to ward off evil spirits. During the earliest period of discovery, these charms were made from animal bones, shells and clay, and at a later period, rocks, gemstones and wood, often, they would be worn in protective pouches and tied to the wearers’ clothing.
Early Christians wore charms in the shape of fish, usually hidden in their clothing, to identify themselves to other Christians during the time of the Roman Empire.
Archaeological evidence suggests that charms were first worn in bracelets as early as 400-600 BC by the Assyrians, Babylonians and Persians, who fashioned tiny charms and wore them on leather cords around their wrists. Charms continued to be used throughout history in different civilisations, sometimes to denote family origin, or allegiance to a specific ruler.
In the 19th century, Queen Victoria again popularised the wearing of charms in bracelets, and the fashion became widespread among the elite middle classes in Europe. As well as frequently wearing them, she also provided them as gifts, with the charms personalised to suit the wearer. When Prince Albert died, she created a mourning charm bracelet, containing mementoes of their life together, a lock of his hair, and a locket with a miniature photograph inside.
In 1889, Tiffany created its iconic charm bracelet, a link bracelet with a single heart, and the piece remains a symbol of status and luxury to this day.
During World War II, the charm bracelet took on a fresh wave of significance when soldiers began to collect trinkets as mementoes of places and people at war. They would be given as presents to loved ones, as reminders of their experiences, and as a way of connecting to estranged lovers and families. Some charms would be bought, and others found, but their intention was always to capture a particular moment or memory, a sort of physical diary of one’s life.
Charm bracelets became positive icons denoting the personal moments or traits of an individual. They were extremely popular in the 50s and 60s and were given to girls on the occasions of 16th or 18th birthdays, weddings or engagements, to be added to as the happier experiences of life accumulated.
At auction, charm bracelets from many eras sell for large sums. Some are heavy in gold weight, and thus their material value is high, but beyond this, each piece is entirely unique. The charm bracelet represents a story, captured in time, each charm a reflection of one person’s experience.
■ Anthemion Auctions offers free specialised jewellery valuations, in addition to fine art, paintings, furniture and collector’s items every Friday between 10am and 4pm. For more information: 029 2047 4444 or anthemions@aol.com