Western Morning News (Saturday)

Wines for Easter

- By Stephen Barrett Sponsored by Devon-based Wickhams

Easter falls in mid April this year so fine spring weather might be expected. For many, Easter marks the first date in the year when a family lunch will be planned and traditiona­l fare such as salmon, lamb and early springtime fruit dishes (rhubarb) are often the norm.

Salmon can be replaced with our excellent local fish – the thought of a larger fish, simply roasted with fresh herbs and citrus appeals to me. White wine is the king here, but with enough depth of flavour to match the side dishes. So what would be my preferred choice?

Rioja Blanco immediatel­y comes to mind with its textured, fruitdrive­n style – sometimes with oak, sometimes not. In days of yore Rioja Blanco was always fermented in small barrels of American oak. The style that evolved was a power bomb of vanilla scented deepfruite­d spicy wine. Similariti­es to some white Burgundy come to mind but, made with the grape Viura, it had a closed fruit character that often took ages to mature.

Since 2007 the Spanish wine authoritie­s have allowed a greater quantity of white grapes to be used, enabling white Rioja to be a chameleon of the white wine world.

Now with grapes such as Tempranill­o Blanco, Verdejo and even Chardonnay, the wine has changed. My tip is to stay with wines featuring a couple of blended grapes, so you can learn more about its taste and style. My choice is Gomez Cruzado Rioja Blanco 2019 (£15.99) elaborated mainly with Viura, offering a gentle nod to Burgundy – it has had some minimal oak internment, while the Tempranill­o Blanco adds a floral and citrus note, creating a fine balance.

Westcountr­y lamb is something special for Easter. The red wine I’d choose is the brother of the White Rioja, Rioja Tinto. Much loved, it comes to the market in many different guises – Joven (young with no oak), Crianza (24 months in oak and bottle), Reserva (36 months in oak and bottle), and Gran Reserva (72 months on oak and bottle).

It’s safe to say the longer in oak and bottle, the more intense the flavours. Lamb is a delicate meat and deserves a red with similar style. This points to the Rioja Crianza with its red fruit and subtle oak notes always offering a balance to the juicy meat. My choice is Torno, Hacienda El Tereno 2016 (£15.99), from an historic bodega in the heart of Rioja – a bottle-aged Tinto of renown. Now in excellent condition, showing elegance, spice and fruit balance.

For informatio­n on how to purchase contact Wickham Wines at www.wickhamwin­es.co.uk

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from United Kingdom