A living legend
TOM DAVIDSON DISCOVERS MEN LIVE LONGER ON STRESS-FREE SARDINIA, ITALY’S IMMORTAL ISLE
SARDINIANS seem to have life sussed when it comes to life, enjoying a stressfree existence on their Mediterranean island, savouring all the best things, the sunshine and the sea, at a gloriously steady pace. It’s a place where family and friends come first and laughing and drinking wine are key, along with walking, fishing and harvesting their own food.
Italy’s ‘immortal island’ is home to the world’s longest-living men – and to road-test this recipe for vitality, I took a Ryanair flight from Stansted to Alghero.
Capital of the coral coast on the northwest of the island, it is one of Sardinia’s most stunning medieval cities. Its charming old town is enclosed by seven towers and honey-coloured sea walls dating back to the 16th century CatalanAragonese conquests.
Cobbled lanes and glamorous piazzas pack into this beautifully preserved centre. Street signs are in Catalan and Italian and much of the architecture is distinctly Spanish. The outer wall of the old town forms part of a long walkway which offers a fabulous panorama of the riviera. Beaches arc away to the north, yachts line up in the sparkling marina below.
Slurping gelato as you weave your way through the lanes full of churches and palaces will help you fall into step with the laid-back lifestyle. Who wouldn’t want to live like a local, sipping Sardinia’s Ichnusa beer or their fruity, herby speciality tipple, Mirto, in pavement bars on balmy evenings?
I also did my best to fit in by tucking into linguine alle vongole made with fresh clams, and lemon, honey and pecorino cheese pastries called seadas, in the pretty, candle-lit restaurants.
Wonderful nights were spent sampling juicy Sardinian wines, while slowly working my way through plates of cured meats, hard cheeses and pane carasau (Sardinian cracker-like flatbread). Hiring a car is recommended if you want to experience more of this relaxed island life and driving is a real pleasure. The 28-mile coast road from Alghero down to Bosa, with its undulating hills, ocean views and magnificent light, makes the journey almost as good as the destination. The only jam you’ll ever find yourself in is when sheep wander onto the road.
With its rainbow townscape and zigzagging, palm-lined river, Bosa is one of the most beautiful villages on the island. Stroll the streets, take in life by the water and be sure to visit Malaspina Castle set high on the hilltop.
Built in 1112 by the Tuscan Malaspina family, the imposing walls and stone towers remain as well as a 14th-century chapel with frescos depicting saints.
At Bistrot Don Carlo Delicatessen in the town, the pecorino cheese was so good I had to buy £20 of it. It’s currently chilling in my fridge.
A mile west of the town is its beach resort, Bosa Marina, with its golden sandy shore and La Torre di Bosa, a tower built to defend the coastline at the mouth of the river Temo.
For those without a car, there’s a bus service from Alghero every hour that will take you to the nearby beaches of Cala Dragunara and Cala Calcina, both beautiful swimming spots.
The sands, solitary coves and towering cliffs of Sardinia’s northwest coastline are its star attraction – to see it at its best, take to the water. I caught a tourist boat from the marina, which cruised north to the promontory of Capo Caccia, known as the Sleeping Giant, the undisputed symbol of Alghero.
At the base of these sheer cliffs are the entrances to beautiful sea caves popular with snorkellers and divers, the most famous being Neptune’s Grotto.
Stretching two-and-a-half miles in length, only a few hundred feet are accessible to adventurers, but this is ample to marvel at spectacular caverns, tunnels, underground lakes surrounded by stalagmites and stalactites.
Sailing back to shore, ice-cold beers and snacks of local olives were handed round and chatter flowed as we swapped stories about the beaches we’d discovered, the hillsides we’d walked and our top restaurant finds.
As the sunset silhouetted the headland and the sky turned pink, I wished for a long and simple Sardinian-style life.
Slurping gelato will help you fall into step with the laid-back lifestyle