Experts say this unconventional ingredient holds the key to clear skin, white teeth and luscious locks

Experts say this unconventional ingredient holds the key to clear skin, white teeth and luscious locks

Inescapably reminiscent of summer barbecues and Santa's naughty list, charcoal certainly isn't the first ingredient to spring to mind when we consider what's good for our skin. But, having been used both internally and topically for centuries (with records dating back to the Egyptians in 1550 BC), it's recently become the beauty buzzword of the moment, with nearly every household brand including the wonder ingredient in face masks, cleansers, shampoos and even toothpaste. Indeed, despite its usual associations, charcoal is fast becoming the key ingredient in our beauty regimes.

Like everyone else, our obsession with charcoal-based beauty products began with social media. From nowhere, our Instagram feed was filled with strangely compelling face mask removal videos, the details of what that black goo could pull away hard to flick past. A product that promised the removal of those blackheads we've been grimacing at in the mirror for years? It sounded too good to be true.

Turns out charcoal was quite rightly propelled to beauty hero status – it works. 'Incorporating charcoal into your skincare regime can have numerous benefits, especially if you have particularly oily skin or suffer from acne,' says consultant dermatologist at the Cadogan Clinic, Dr. Anjali Mahto. 'Its ability to pull dirt and toxins from the skin makes it a great deep cleanser and detoxifier. It's also a natural ingredient, meaning that anyone can use it without their skin being at risk of having a reaction. Its effectiveness, does, however, depend on its concentration and length of contact with the skin.'

How does it work? Charcoal in beauty products actually refers to activated charcoal – carbon that's been treated to increase its absorbency. 'Activated charcoal is charcoal that's been reheated and then rapidly cooled to increase the number of pores on its surface area,' explains Dr. Mahto. 'These pores trap foreign particles that the charcoal comes into contact with (called 'adsorption') so that they're unable to be reabsorbed by the body, and are subsequently removed when the charcoal leaves the body.' Testament to its efficacy, activated charcoal can adsorb over 100 times its weight in impurities, so much so that it’s been used for centuries in hospitals to treat extreme poisoning cases, binding to and removing toxins before they reach the blood stream.

Today, the charcoal market is booming, with face masks, exfoliants, cleansers, haircare and toothpastes all touting charcoal as their star ingredient. 'The beauty industry has introduced a number of different activated charcoal products in recent years,' says Dr. Mahto. 'Due to its ability to remove dirt, toxins and excess oils, it is best used within a cleanser. It's also a really beneficial ingredient within a face mask, as the longer the activated charcoal is in contact with the skin, the more impurities it can remove.'

A number of charcoal peel masks, however, have faced criticism for being too harsh on the skin, with users complaining of pain and irritation upon removal. 'There are several videos online of consumers experiencing pain and discomfort when trying to remove a charcoal peel mask,' explains Dr. Mahto. 'This is because the mask doesn't only 'stick' to the blackheads, but also to the skin and hair on your face. When the mask is removed, it pulls off the outermost layer of skin and associated oils which serve as a barrier to protect the skin from the environment. This, plus pulling out the small hairs, would cause significant pain – just like waxing the face – which can lead to irritation. Within 30 days, the skin will replace the oils and sebaceous filaments you've ripped out with your mask, so the damage will heal.' Because of this healing period, however, Dr. Mahto recommends not using these peel masks too regularly. 'If you continue to strip the skin of its natural oils, you're likely to cause secondary issues,' explains Dr. Mahto. 'If you've applied a charcoal peel mask, you should use a gentle cleanser while you wait for the skin to recover and apply a hydrating, antioxidant-filled serum to aid the repair process. Also, make sure you are applying an SPF of at least 30 everyday, as any damage caused by the peel may make your skin more sensitive to UV rays.'

Are there any other risks to be aware of? 'Activated charcoal has a low hazard rating and so, as a lone ingredient, it's safe for topical use,' assures Dr. Mahto. 'Charcoal products can be used on any skin type but are particularly suited to oily skin. Acne sufferers often benefit from using activated charcoal, as the clearing of pores and the reduction of oil can help to control breakouts.'

And it isn't only in skincare where the ingredient shines. Charcoal has also been hailed for its ability to keep our pearly whites pearly and white, and, according to Jennifer Jackson, managing director at Laila London, it was used by ancient Romans, Greeks and Egyptians for this very purpose. 'Activated charcoal binds to the bacteria and toxins in your mouth and gently removes surface stains and plaque, making it easy to remove impurities and leave your teeth sparkling white,' she explains.

Ready to incorporate this wonder ingredient into your beauty regime? Here are the top products you need to get you started...

Its ability to pull dirt and toxins from the skin makes it a great deep cleanser and detoxifier