MAKE-UP AS SKIN­CARE

Car­ing for your face shouldn’t stop once you put your slap on. We get un­der the skin of the next-gen­er­a­tion multi-task­ing formulas that nour­ish while they cover

Women's Health (UK) - - CON­TENTS -

In­tro­duc­ing the slap that nour­ishes while it cov­ers

Pic­ture the scene: you smash an egg-white omelette for break­fast, wash it down with a turmeric latte, then hit the gym for a 30-minute HIIT sesh – all be­fore you get to work. Would you then sit at your desk and gorge on a bag of Wot­sits, two Snick­ers bars and a can of Coke? Of course not. But all this putting-in-the­hard-work-fol­lowed-by-a-quite-dra­mati­c­un­do­ing is ba­si­cally what’s hap­pen­ing with your skin. You metic­u­lously cleanse, tone and mois­turise, then smother it with make-up that – most likely – isn’t car­ing for your face. ‘In the past, foun­da­tion didn’t let skin func­tion nor­mally,’ says Deb­bie Thomas, celebrity skin and laser ex­pert. ‘Skin needs to breathe, and old for­mu­la­tions suf­fo­cated it. Most foun­da­tions con­tained in­flam­ma­tory and come­do­genic in­gre­di­ents, which caused con­ges­tion, block­ages and black­heads. On the sur­face, skin looked healthy, but un­der­neath it was suf­fer­ing.’ How­ever, be­fore you swear off base make-up and go barefaced for good, know this: the num­ber of beauty prod­ucts that claim to care for your skin has rock­eted in the past two years. For­mu­la­tions are now lighter and less come­do­genic than ever. In fact, half of foun­da­tion sales growth last year came from those with mois­tur­is­ing ben­e­fits, and a fur­ther 22% from oil-con­trol foun­da­tions; prod­ucts with anti-age­ing prom­ises were up 6.5% and Spf-en­riched formulas were up 53%*. So the fig­ures look pretty good. But is this sim­ply a fad? Not if Jamie Kern Lima, founder of skin-lov­ing make-up brand IT Cos­met­ics, has any­thing to do with it. She suf­fers from rosacea and hy­per­pig­men­ta­tion, and found it hard to lo­cate prod­ucts that made her skin look more healthy. So she as­sem­bled a team of der­ma­tol­o­gists and sur­geons to cre­ate a skin­care/make-up fu­sion range that to­day is worth around £960 mil­lion. ‘I wanted to pro­vide for­mu­la­tions that start their life as skin­care – with clin­i­cally tested in­gre­di­ents like hy­drol­ysed col­la­gen, niacin, ce­ramides, hyaluronic acid, pep­tides and an­tiox­i­dants – then in­fuse them with qual­ity colour or cov­er­age,’ says Kern Lima. And it’s not just the fu­ture of sci­ence-backed for­mu­la­tions that’s look­ing bright. Holis­tic life­style brand Dr Hauschka launched a colour line ear­lier this year that’s 100% nat­u­ral and in­fused with skin-lov­ing plant oils. ‘Peo­ple are con­cerned about the chem­i­cals found in tra­di­tional make-up get­ting into their sys­tems through their skin,’ says Tara O’rourke, a mas­ter skin ther­a­pist for Dr Hauschka. ‘Re­search sug­gests that they are harm­ful for skin and gen­eral health, and con­sumers are start­ing to lis­ten.’ Want your make-up to love your skin as much as you do? Read on for your per­son­alised skin pre­scrip­tion.

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