Women's Health (UK)

MAKE-UP AS SKINCARE

Caring for your face shouldn’t stop once you put your slap on. We get under the skin of the next-generation multi-tasking formulas that nourish while they cover

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Introducin­g the slap that nourishes while it covers

Picture the scene: you smash an egg-white omelette for breakfast, wash it down with a turmeric latte, then hit the gym for a 30-minute HIIT sesh – all before you get to work. Would you then sit at your desk and gorge on a bag of Wotsits, two Snickers bars and a can of Coke? Of course not. But all this putting-in-thehard-work-followed-by-a-quite-dramaticun­doing is basically what’s happening with your skin. You meticulous­ly cleanse, tone and moisturise, then smother it with make-up that – most likely – isn’t caring for your face. ‘In the past, foundation didn’t let skin function normally,’ says Debbie Thomas, celebrity skin and laser expert. ‘Skin needs to breathe, and old formulatio­ns suffocated it. Most foundation­s contained inflammato­ry and comedogeni­c ingredient­s, which caused congestion, blockages and blackheads. On the surface, skin looked healthy, but underneath it was suffering.’ However, before you swear off base make-up and go barefaced for good, know this: the number of beauty products that claim to care for your skin has rocketed in the past two years. Formulatio­ns are now lighter and less comedogeni­c than ever. In fact, half of foundation sales growth last year came from those with moisturisi­ng benefits, and a further 22% from oil-control foundation­s; products with anti-ageing promises were up 6.5% and Spf-enriched formulas were up 53%*. So the figures look pretty good. But is this simply a fad? Not if Jamie Kern Lima, founder of skin-loving make-up brand IT Cosmetics, has anything to do with it. She suffers from rosacea and hyperpigme­ntation, and found it hard to locate products that made her skin look more healthy. So she assembled a team of dermatolog­ists and surgeons to create a skincare/make-up fusion range that today is worth around £960 million. ‘I wanted to provide formulatio­ns that start their life as skincare – with clinically tested ingredient­s like hydrolysed collagen, niacin, ceramides, hyaluronic acid, peptides and antioxidan­ts – then infuse them with quality colour or coverage,’ says Kern Lima. And it’s not just the future of science-backed formulatio­ns that’s looking bright. Holistic lifestyle brand Dr Hauschka launched a colour line earlier this year that’s 100% natural and infused with skin-loving plant oils. ‘People are concerned about the chemicals found in traditiona­l make-up getting into their systems through their skin,’ says Tara O’rourke, a master skin therapist for Dr Hauschka. ‘Research suggests that they are harmful for skin and general health, and consumers are starting to listen.’ Want your make-up to love your skin as much as you do? Read on for your personalis­ed skin prescripti­on.

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