IT’S ALL IN THE EYES

They may be the windows to your soul but, to a passing stranger, your eyes are probably more likely to convey lack of sleep, a dodgy diet and lazy skincare habits. Luckily for you, we’ve sorted through the latest science to find out exactly what you need

The area around your peepers is crying out for a little TLC

When was the last time you blinked? Probably within the last five seconds, actually.

These unconscious micro-movements mean that, even if you spent the rest of your life sitting in a darkened room (aside from being really bored and very, very pale), your eye area would age in a way the rest of your face wouldn’t. It’s probably why 76% of women say they worry more about their eyes than the rest of their face, and why eyelid surgery was the UK’S third most common cosmetic surgery procedure of 2017.

‘The eyes are one of the first areas of the face to show signs of ageing,’ confirms cosmetic dermatologist Dr Sam Bunting (drsambunting.com). ‘That’s partly because they contain some of the most active muscles on the face (hello, smile lines and crow’s feet) and partly because they’re one of the areas where your lifestyle – smoking, lack of sleep, squinting in the sun, scrubbing away a smoky eyeshadow – really shows.’

In fact, research presented at last year’s American Academy of Dermatology conference showed, using analysis of gene expression, that the region around the eyes can have a biological age of up to 22 years older than other parts of the face. Oof. It doesn’t help that the eye area is pretty much an oil-free zone, as the skin here has fewer oil-secreting glands and, according to Japanese scientists who looked at the relationship between sebaceous glands and wrinkle depth, that means more dryness and – oh, sweet joy – more wrinkles.

The skin under the eye is also thinner, so it’s on the back foot from the start. ‘We know that exposure to UV rays and pollution generates free radicals – unstable compounds that contribute to the breakdown of collagen and elastin, which are the proteins that makes skin look firm and youthful,’ says aesthetic doctor David Jack (drdavidjack. com). ‘If the skin is thinner to begin with, this damage is more quickly apparent.’

And the dreaded dark circles? ‘There tends to be less fat underneath the skin around your eyes, which makes the darker blood vessels underneath more noticeable,’ says Dr Bunting. ‘This creates a shadowy look in an area that’s already a natural hollow, so you can look tired, even when you’re not.’ That means you’re looking for a product that can make this skin thicker in the long-term, and a good base for concealer in the short-term. Then, of course, there’s the issue of puffiness. ‘This is caused by a build-up of fluid,’ explains Dr Jack. ‘Some people are simply genetically more prone to it than others.’

Sorry about all the bad news in quick succession – but all’s not lost. According to Dr Bunting, the eye area just happens to be one of those skincare spheres where ‘a pre-emptive strike in your twenties and thirties can really pay dividends later on’. What she’s talking about is dealing with these issues in a targeted approach – and yet, according to Mintel research, only 30% of British women use a dedicated eye cream. Poor show. You need a multitasking product, or a few that combine to deliver a serious shot of moisture, help boost the thickness of the skin and, if you’re prone to puffiness, help to dampen that down. Too much to ask? Not at all. Here are the scientifically proven ingredients you should be looking for…