AZELAIC ACID
Despite being one of dermatology’s most popular ingredients, many of you won’t have heard of azelaic acid until now. The grainderived acid, credited for reducing pigmentation and unclogging blocked pores, is currently making its way into over-the-counter products.
WHY IT’S BUZZY
‘Azelaic acid comes from barley, wheat and rye, and when used in skincare products, it’s usually lab-engineered for maximum effectiveness,’ says consultant dermatologist Dr Aikaterini Charakida. A very mild exfoliant, it helps to tackle excessive keratinisation – the process whereby ageing skin cells rise towards the surface of the skin and build up to such an extent that normal shedding can’t take place, leading to congestion. It’s also an effective treatment for mild cases of both hormonal and cystic acne; in one study, published in the Journal Of Medical Sciences, all 40 participants who used azelaic acid at
10% concentration saw their acne improve after just eight weeks. Its potent anti-inflammatory properties also make it a go-to for rosacea, and it’s one of the few ingredients that’s considered safe to use in pregnancy, adds Dr Charakida.
BEHIND THE BUZZ
‘Azelaic isn’t the easiest ingredient to formulate – and when it’s not properly formulated, the texture can become grainy, which may cause skin irritation,’ says Paula Begoun, founder of skincare brand Paula’s Choice, who adds that it doesn’t exfoliate as effectively as glycolic acid, lactic acid or salicylic acid. As for the research, most has been carried out on products that are only available on prescription, with a concentration between 15% and 20% – although initial research on lower concentrations has still been shown to have an impact on skin.
THE WH VERDICT
The research is promising and the fact that so many brands are now using it tells you all you need to know. The beauty of azelaic acid is that it’ll slot easily into your existing routine, since it’s found in everything from cleansers and moisturisers to serums, toners and sunscreens. Look for formulations with the maximum concentration of 10%.
TRY
Paula’s Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster with Licorice + Salicylic Acid, £37;
The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%, £5.50