Anchorages
Idyllic spots to stop in Scotland, Spain and the Caribbean
Of all the fine anchorages along the north Spanish coast Viavélez is, without doubt, my favourite.
This small, landlocked harbour, nine miles east of Ribadeo, is not for everybody. The craft needs to be of moderate size, both in length and depth, and the skipper not of a nervous disposition. Entry to this idyllic spot can be quite difficult and should only be made in settled conditions and with a good rise of the tide.
This coastline has high cliffs and some isolated rocks inconsiderately placed a long way out to trap the unwary. Even with an offshore waypoint, on my last visit I got it wrong and found myself in a cul-de-sac with swell crashing angrily on the embracing rocks.
The entrance can be difficult as the masonry of the short conical tower on the outer breakwater is the same colour as the surrounding cliffs, although it helps if the houses in the village can be seen peeping out.
The decision whether or not there is too much swell should be taken before rounding the breakwater. Even in a moderate swell the waves rebound off both breakwaters causing a lively, tumultuous short passage into the harbour. However, all is rewarded once through, as you glide in to this placid pool. The recognised anchorage is inside the southern breakwater in two metres, but there is little swinging room and a kedge might be needed.
As you see from the picture, Reservation was able to anchor abeam of the beacon off the north quay even at Springs. The harbour shoals rapidly to the west, although there appears to be more water along the northern quay, and one of the larger fishing boats regularly moors at a quay in the creek.
The fishermen are very friendly and, when I slipped on the slime of the slipway, one was immediately there to help me up and into my dinghy.
Ashore it is really beautiful. Past a cave where waves crash against the rocks, a steep path leads up to a magnificent viewpoint. Here you can see the cliffs stretching into the distance, the turbulent entrance and a bird’s eye view of the harbour.
The little village has no shops but there is a fine restaurant and bar in the creek. Last time it was closed with a charming notice, which read ‘Closed Mondays for a rest’. This time it was open and I was made most welcome and able to recharge my computer.
It is also worth walking around the southern shore of the harbour. A short path passes the only eyesore, a block of flats, and leads through woodland tracks, swarming with wild cats.
This harbour is a real gem and one I had been looking forward to revisiting. It did not disappoint and my only regret is that I am unlikely to visit it again.
There are rarely rewards without effort and this harbour is worth a visit.