A LONG WEEKEND
Pirates, coastal walking and idyllic coves: Hayley Kirkby finds there is more to Brixham than just its vibrant fishing harbour
Brixham at its best. Hayley Kirkby explores the coves and coastal paths of this vibrant Devon harbour
After a long sail across the expanse of Lyme Bay, the sight of Brixham at the southern end of Tor Bay brings welcome relief. Approaching from the sea, the view is one of colourful houses cascading down on either side of the harbour. A couple of trawlers emerge from behind the long breakwater, along with the occasional ferry heading over to nearby Torquay. Other than this, there is little to concern a yacht on its way to the harbour entrance.
A popular town with a distinctive character, there is more to Brixham than meets the eye. It is rich in stories about its maritime and military past but is best known for the development of fishing trawlers, which saw Brixham transformed from a small village to a busy port. Once home to one of the world’s largest fleet of powerful wooden sailing trawlers, it was given the title ‘Mother of Deep-sea fisheries’.
Heading down the main fairway, there is much to see and take in. It is busy, with yachts tied off to mooring buoys, different-coloured trawlers of all shapes and sizes, and fishermen hauling up their catches. Most striking at this point is the sight ahead. Three large gaff-rigged trawlers take pride of place on the town pontoon. Enchanting and beautiful, they are a modern-day reminder of the vessels once built in the town’s shipyards. These heritage trawlers are examples of the ones that remain, lovingly restored with names such as Leader and Vigilance. Tying up our 36ft Westerly Conway ketch, Milos, next to them, we could appreciate their size and design.
Around us, tourists mingled and children edged the harbour wall with buckets and crab lines hanging down to the water. We were right at the heart of the outer harbour, a short walk away from the town, and perfectly placed to explore the coastline.
Brixham is pretty but it also has grit. Fisherman and locals jostle for space alongside visitors. It is a vibrant working town and remains one of the busiest fishing ports in England. Over 100 boats regularly come and go from the harbour, unloading and selling their catch in the fish market. There is a warren of winding streets to explore.
Walking around the inner harbour, we were treated to shanty singers, fresh shellfish and the odd pirate. There are plenty more pirates during the Pirate Festival in May when everyone is in authentic costume, with blackened teeth, matted hair, daggers and pistols. Prominent amongst the local boats which all fall and rise with the changing tide is the replica of Sir Francis Drake’s Golden Hind. There is also the glorious and irresistible smell of fish and chips.
To experience all that Brixham has to offer means grabbing a pair of walking boots and heading away from the bustle. The South West Coast Path lines the edge of Tor Bay and runs right through Brixham, and we spent a couple of days exploring in different directions. A steep climb took us to the top of Berry Head which marks the southern end of the bay. From this vantage point, we could see all the way north to Torquay and south across the Channel. A few boats were sailing on the calm water some 60m below us, as guillemots and gannets swirled around our heads. The lighthouse at Berry Head is the shortest in Britain, standing at just 5m high. Sat on this impressive headland, however, it is also the highest.
Further delights can be had by seeking out nearby coves and anchorages. Just to the west of the harbour limits lies Fishcombe Cove, a small bay surrounded by hills and woodland, with a shingle beach lining its edge. At times, we were joined by locals and tourists, the braver amongst them taking to the still-too-cold water and exploring the rock pools. In the early season we had it much to ourselves, aside from a couple of seals that popped their heads out to say hello.
Following the coastline even further west is Elberry Cove. Tucked away, the pebbled beach is sheltered by trees with views of fields beyond. At the eastern end, the crumbling ruins of a bathhouse provide a sense of romance and history, looking like the remains of a small castle. It was built in the 18th
Down the main fairway, you’ll see yachts tied off to mooring buoys and fishermen hauling up their catch
Century for Lord Churston when bathing in seawater became fashionable. This bay also has links to Agatha Christie, who used to come here from the nearby Greenway Estate. She also wrote about it in one of her novels. The cove is close to the designated waterski area and we had to wind our way in to avoid the many buoys that mark the course. Finding it at a less busy time and in calm weather, it was worth navigating the obstacles for a peaceful, pretty place to lie at anchor.
From either of these coves, you can land on the beach and join the coastal path, as long as you don’t mind leaving the tender or getting your feet wet. A short walk from here through the woods and fields takes you to Broadsands. Living up to its name, it’s an expanse of sand at low tide, with row upon row of coloured beach huts. On our way there, the Dartmouth steam train climbed the far hill over the bay, steam pouring from its chimney and whistling as it crossed the viaduct on its way to Kingswear.
It’s easy to fill a few days in Brixham and there is plenty to see. Even as we left Tor Bay, we were followed out by the Nao Victoria. A 20m-long carrack, this is a replica of Magellan’s ship, the first vessel to circumnavigate the globe in 1522. It was lovely to watch her against a backdrop of Berry Head as we continued to our next destination, Dartmouth.
In the early season you will have Fishcombe Cove much to yourself, aside from a few seals that pop their heads out