A dream fulfilled
Peter Kersey experiences a lively channel crossing aboard the Brixham trawler Provident
Provident! The Brixham trawler has been part of my nautical memory for decades. I first came across her in Yachting Monthly – Des Sleightholme was once Provident’s skipper – and fell in love with the beauty of her under full sail with topsails and flying jib set. When the opportunity came to sail her, I didn’t hesitate.
At that time she was run by the charity Trinity Sailing Foundation, which has since had to put Provident up for sale due to funding problems.
We joined the wooden trawler in Brixham for a cruise to the Channel Islands and North Brittany. There were eight guest crew as well as the permanent skipper Ben, mate Jo, boatswain Ida and cook Daisy.
Following a safety briefing, we threw off Provident’s lines and after Ben expertly used the mizzen to turn the boat within the confines of Brixham harbour, we motored in very light airs to Dartmouth.
We were awoken at 0500 the next day for a departure at 0630. Just outside the harbour, sails were raised by the old method of sweating and tailing. The mainsail required two teams of three to sweat it up, one for the throat halyard and one for the peak halyard; the mizzen sail was hoisted similarly. The staysail was hoisted direct from the deck but the jib was hoisted in stoppers, run out along the bowsprit and broken out when aloft. To hoist in stoppers, the jib is first laid out along the deck, then tightly folded along its length and tied at about one-metre intervals with light natural cordage that will break with a good pull on the sheets once aloft.
The wind was northeasterly Force 4 and Provident sped across the English Channel to Guernsey at an average speed of seven knots. During the passage, we kept four-hour watches and helming was shared, closely supervised at first by the mate or boatswain. We had to wait off St Peter Port for the
Condor ferry to berth first then motored in with the mizzen sail still raised. We were to be berthed at the new cruise ship landing pontoon but access was very tight. Ben again used the mizzen to help turn Provident and she slid gently and sideways into her berth with just a few spare metres at either end of the boat. A convivial supper was had around the large table in the saloon.
I awoke the next morning to the happy sounds of clinking crockery and the declaration, by the skipper, of a morning free to explore St Peter Port. We wandered around the town then visited Candie Gardens; once part of a large estate and given to the town, it has good views over the town and to neighbouring islands.
We returned to Provident in time for lunch before departure for Sark. With the wind dead astern and the mainsail and mizzen goose-winged, we sailed across the Little Russel Channel to round the southern tip of Sark and anchor in Dixcart Bay.
After supper, the skipper informed us that as the forecast was for a westerly wind, then becoming northerly for the foreseeable future, it was necessary for us to cross back to Dartmouth or face a very long return passage against the wind.
The following morning dawned bright and with a sky completely clear of clouds. Breakfast was served on deck and we enjoyed the warm sunshine as we ate. The passage plan was to head north of Sark and Guernsey then cross south of the Traffic Separation Scheme (TSS) off the Casquets and head for Start Point. A 1000 departure gave favourable tides round the islands. Once clear of the islands and TSS, the wind varied between south westerly and south south westerly, and Provident picked up her skirts and ran before it on a quartering sea.
The weather remained bright and sunny but slowly the wind increased to a Force 6 by the time we were mid-channel. It was dusk by the time we spotted Start Point’s light, and Provident began surfing down the short steep waves in Start Bay as we headed for Dartmouth. The trawler was still under full plain sail and the wind continued to increase, with 40 knots recorded across the deck at one point. Provident always felt under control, though the helm was getting twitchier in the wilder seas and required careful handling to keep the boat running straight and avoid broaching. It was a relief to enter the River Dart and round the first bend where we were immediately sheltered from the wind. Ben turned Provident across the river to sit about 50 metres off moored boats at either end of her, while the sails were lowered and furled. We then moved up river and picked up a mooring opposite the town. It was an amazing passage, with superb boat and sail handling from the skipper and crew.
We awoke to the sound of heavy rain but this soon cleared and the day turned sunny and fine as we motored up river to anchor just before the Anchor Stone Port Hand marker below Dittisham. The evening was a flat calm with a glorious technicolour sunset, quite a contrast to the previous evening.
The next morning was bright and sunny so mainsail, mizzen and mizzen topsail were hoisted, the staysail set and we gathered our anchor, headed down the Dart, rounded the Mewstone and sailed past Berry Head and on into Tor Bay. Here, in the light wind, we hoisted the flying jib, in stoppers, broke her out and spent the day on manoeuvres, tacking and gybing. As evening drew on we glided back into Tor Bay and anchored off Broad Sands, north-east of the mussel farm.
This was our last night aboard; there was a strong party atmosphere at supper and the craic and stories went on a good while.
The final day of the trip was spent tidying the boat, with a harbour stow for the sails followed by a gentle motor into Brixham.
The farewells were long and fond – there was much admiration of the skipper and permanent crew for their boat and sail handling and for their patience in turning the raw recruits into more useful seamen.
My thanks especially go Ben, Jo, Ida and Daisy, the permanent crew, who made us so welcome and made it all look so easy!