FITTING ANODES
1 When you take your boat out of the water, you are looking for good amounts of corrosion on the anode, which means it is working. No corrosion means you have a problem with bonding. If it has corroded more the 50%, however, the anode isn’t big enough and you’ll need to replace it with a larger one.
2 To take off the anode, remove the 15mm nuts and slide the anode off the studs. When you put the new anode on, replace the spring washers as these lock the anode on, and use a drop of Locktite to keep the nuts in place. Don’t forget to put the supplied sponge mat between the boat and the flat surface of the anode as this protects the hull when the anode corrodes
3 There will also be an anode on the prop shaft or on the sail drive. Again, these need to be large enough that they don’t corrode over 50% in the time the boat will be afloat. Make sure the two halves of the shaft anodes are snugged up to a clean shaft, and the screws secured with Locktite.
4 Don’t forget other metal underwater fittings, such as rudder skeg shoes or refrigerator plates, which often have their own anodes, and some engines also include anodes inside the raw-water cooling system that will need changing.