THE GULF OF MORBIHAM
Medieval towns, quaint anchorages, islands and beaches make this Breton inland sea ripe for exploring by boat
DO YOU ONLY HAVE A WEEK TO SPARE? For those of us who are time poor but who want to seize the moment, either on our own boat or on a charter, it is reassuring to know that there are plenty of cruising hubs from where we can enjoy some of the best of the region in only a few days. This new series, A Week Afloat, commissioned by Yachting Monthly and Imray, visits some ideal destinations and suggests a one-week itinerary. Each article, complete with expanded information about cruising each area, will be available as a PDF download via Imray’s website or Google Play Books.
The Gulf of Morbihan is a fabulously scenic inland sea of 50 square miles and about 40 islands, affording some protection from the weather, and busy with boats of all shapes and sizes. It is the perfect place for a week’s cruise, with sandy beaches, history and legend to discover and gastronomy to enjoy. The River Auray leads up to the charming town of Auray in the north-west corner of the gulf. Vannes, in the northeast corner, is a place of winding cobbled streets, full of character, colour and beautiful medieval architecture as well as having a stunningly good market.
It is difficult to charter a boat from the Gulf of Morbihan itself. The main charter base is La Trinité in Quiberon Bay about five miles WNW from the entrance to the gulf. La Trinité is also the name of its flourishing oyster river with excellent sailing facilities and plenty of bars, restaurants and shops. It is often described as the home of the racing fraternity and is where France’s 1970 America’s Cup yacht is kept. Provisioning is easy at the town’s Carrefour supermarket, supplemented with fresh produce from the twice-weekly market and numerous fish markets on the quay.
A week’s charter will give sufficient time to sample some of the Gulf of Morbihan. You could, however, spend several weeks exploring the myriad of delightfully secluded anchorages. The islands just outside Quiberon Bay are perfect to visit in
good weather. Belle-île is the largest with a couple of proper harbours and lots of anchorages. The smaller islands of Houat and Hoëdic are also very attractive with lovely walks and idyllic spots to anchor with beautiful beaches.
Navigation in the Gulf of Morbihan is relatively straightforward. The islands are easy to identify and there is deep water in the main channels, however streams can run at 3-4 knots in any narrows and up to 8 knots in the entrance at spring tides. You do need to be a little bit adventurous to benefit fully from the sheer magic of the place, but the rewards are plentiful and breathtaking.
You do need to be adventurous to benefit fully from the sheer magic of the place, but the rewards are plentiful and breathtaking
DAY 1: LA TRINITÉ TO AURAY (15 MILES)
It’s an exciting prospect to sail through the entrance of the Gulf of Morbihan for the first time. The key to a stress-free passage lies in getting your tides right. The best plan for a passage to Auray is to be at the Morbihan entrance at about HW Brest – 0400 which will allow about four hours of favourable tide upriver. Be aware of how close it is to spring or neap tides to help ascertain the strength of the stream.
On passage from La Trinité, leave Les Buissons de Meaban well to port and make sure you have familiarised yourself with the chart before going through the entrance, so you can identify the buoyage marking the channel to the River Auray. The river becomes less strong as you go further up, as the main strength of the stream goes north-east through the islands towards Vannes.
Either pick up a fore and aft mooring in the charming Port de Bono or continue towards Auray and anchor in sufficient depth about quarter of a mile south of the bridge.
Take a dinghy up-river and tie up on a jetty which has sufficient water for all tides. Enjoy a drink in one of the bars on the quay at the 15th century pictureperfect port of St Goustan in Auray, before walking up the hill to the west to explore the old town of Auray itself. It was here that Benjamin Franklin, a founding father of the United States of America, landed in December 1776 for secret meetings with the king of France.
DAY 2: AURAY TO ÎLE D’ARZ (13 MILES)
The passage from Auray to Île d’arz will give you the full experience of navigating through the islands, sometimes motoring against the stream and at other times benefitting from the stream. The other variable, of course, being the wind direction. Given that the main strength of the stream goes from the Morbihan entrance towards Vannes, it would be best to punch the start of the tide from Auray and go with the flood towards Île d’arz.
Drop the anchor for a lunch stop at Île Longue, Île Berder or Île de la Jument and wait for the flood tide before heading to a beautiful anchorage outside the moorings on the eastern side of Île
d’arz. Make sure your anchor is well dug in to ensure you stay where you are when the tide runs strongly in the opposite direction.
This is a popular anchorage in high season, great for swimming and exploring the island. Land at the slipway by the red beacon and walk up to Le Bourg where there are modest shops and some delightful restaurants. Remember to leave sufficient length of painter to allow for rise or fall of tide when returning in the dark.
DAY 3: ÎLE D’ARZ TO VANNES (8 MILES)
Vannes Marina is only accessible about two hours either side of HW Vannes, so it is best to take advantage of the flood tide. You can choose to go either east of Île d’arz, being careful of the shoals by Île de Lern or south and round the west side of the island, stopping for a quiet lunch at anchor off Île Pirenn before joining the main buoyed route to Vannes. As you come into the Vannes channel, be careful of the shallows just before the swing bridge and entry gate (open HW +/- 2hrs).
Adjacent to the marina is the 15th century medieval old town with its lovely buildings, narrow streets and masses of little shops. On Wednesdays and Saturdays there is a colourful street market where entertainers often perform. History buffs will enjoy the fine cathedral and museum, and a walk on the ramparts. The quay hosts an appealing selection of restaurants.
DAY 4: VANNES TO PORT DU CROUESTY (16 MILES)
Departure from Vannes depends on the opening time of the entry gate and the swing bridge. Leave on the start of the ebb for a favourable tide all the way to Port du Crouesty. It is important to decide your route through the islands in advance as the stream will be strong, especially through the narrows.
For a lunch stop, there is a good little anchorage at Île Brannec or outside the moorings at Anse de Kerners. But keep an eye on the tide as you will need sufficient ebb to go out through the Morbihan entrance
Port du Crouesty is just outside. The marina has all the normal facilities and several bars and restaurants to choose from. There is a supermarket too, should you wish to stock up to stay at anchor another night.
Houat, pronounced ‘Hoo-at’ to rhyme with ‘that’, is one of the gems of south Brittany and is a complete contrast to the large marina of Port du Crouesty. The strangely shaped island is about two-miles long and has spectacular
The perfect place for a boating holiday: with sandy beaches, history to discover and gastronomy to enjoy
beaches, wonderful walking, a profusion of wildflowers and very little else. There are few navigational obstacles when approaching from Port du Crouesty, although La Vieille, a conspicuous 17m-high rock, is clearly something to avoid. The most popular anchorages are on the eastern side of the island at Tréach er Gourhed and Tréach Salus. When choosing your overnight anchorage, take account of the prevailing weather. Both anchorages are prone to an afternoon sea breeze and a brise de terre (land breeze) at night. Allow sufficient time for a swim and a walk to the pretty village of Saint Gildas.
DAY 6: ÎLE HOUAT TO LA TRINITÉ (15 MILES)
In a southwesterly wind this is a beautiful beam reach across Quiberon Bay, the scene of a tragically famous battle in 1759. British and French ships became trapped on a lee shore within the bay as they tried to escape the westerly storm-force winds. The Battle of Quiberon Bay was the culmination of British efforts to eliminate French naval superiority. It also removed the threat of a pre-planned French invasion of England.
Sheltered from the west but open to the east, Port d’orange, two miles north of Port Haliguen on the Quiberon Peninsula, might be a suitable lunchtime anchorage. Or if it’s swimming weather you could anchor off the beach at Carnac. The nearby Carnac stones, or ‘alignments’ as they are known, are worth visiting. They were erected at the same time as Stonehenge and are about three miles from La Trinité, accessible by a charming local motor train.
GOT A BIT LONGER?
You can head outside Quiberon Bay to visit Belleîsle’s attractive harbours of Sauzon and Le Palais, as well as numerous picturesque anchorages.
The small inlet of Ster-wenn, on the north-west coast, is my favourite, where you raft up from a cable, hanging across the anchorage. Hoëdic is the smallest of the three islands. There is some tricky navigation off its coast, but rich rewards in the shape of Argol harbour and several anchorages, which in fine weather have beautiful clear water.