MARMARIS, TURKEY
A week afloat in a convenient cruising ground renowned for its warm welcome
DO YOU ONLY HAVE A WEEK TO SPARE?
For those of us who are time poor but who want to seize the moment, either on our own boat or on a charter, it is reassuring to know that there are plenty of cruising hubs from where we can enjoy some of the best of the region in only a few days. This new series, A Week Afloat, commissioned by Yachting Monthly and Imray, visits some ideal destinations and suggests a one-week itinerary. Each article, complete with expanded information about cruising each area, will be available as a PDF download via Imray’s website or Google Play Books.
Lu Heikell gained a love of sailing from her father, Peter. She met her husband Rod when she was crew on a trip from the Azores to Gibraltar in 1999. She and Rod have lived, loved and worked together for 20 years and live on the Isle of Wight.
Turkey is a geographical and cultural bridge between Europe and Asia that presents a new arrival with a curious amalgam of East and West. You will encounter all the trappings of a modern western economy side by side with Islamic culture, pencilthin minarets, the call to prayer and the smells and sights of the bazaar. Turks are renowned for their hospitality. Almost without exception you will be greeted everywhere with ‘Hosgeldiniz’ ('welcome') although in most places English is spoken.
The southwestern corner of Turkey is an area perfectly suited to cruising. The coastline is deeply indented with bays and several deep gulfs. The Greek islands of the Dodecanese lie close offshore, in places just a mile or so away. Marmaris lies in the centre of this region where there are harbours, anchorages and marinas conveniently spaced along the coast with plenty of options for shelter. It is common to find small home-built catwalks off a restaurant even in the most remote bays, and although they tend to come and go they often have wonderful fresh fish and home-baked village bread.
Marmaris is a large tourist town, with excellent options for eating out and provisioning. Adaköy Marina and Yat Marin are both a few kilometres out of town on the southern shores of the bay, but are linked by a regular minibus service to the town. Netsel Marina is right in the heart of the town. Throughout the region there are several
boatyards and marinas where it is suitable to leave a boat, and charter bases can be found at most major marinas. The area is well served by two international airports at Milas-bodrum and Dalaman-göcek.
HISTORY
The area west of Marmaris is known as Caria after the indigenous people living here before the first Aeolian and Ionian colonists arrived at the beginning of the first millennium BC. Right through the Greek and Roman periods the Carians preserved their own identity. Greek and Roman architectural ideas were adopted and presumably so were matters of dress, diet and religion. One thing the Carians were long famous for was their seafaring skill. As far back as the 6th century BC the Carian fighting fleet was a feared and respected force. There are numerous ancient sites along this coast that are easily accessible to cruising sailors.
From Marmaris there are options to head either east or west, depending on time and weather.
For a one-week trip we will head west along the Carian coast. The advantage of this route is that the homeward leg back to base will normally be an easy downwind sail.
DAY ONE: MARMARIS TO SERÇE LIMANI (24 MILES)
Try for a reasonably early start if the Meltemi, the prevailing summer wind, is blowing in order to make some miles before it becomes too much of a windward bash. If the Meltemi is howling you could stop off in Çiftlik and catch up the following day.
Serçe Limani is a completely landlocked natural harbour whose entrance is all but impossible to identify until you are almost up to it. The large bay has two arms running north and west. Either anchor in the southern bay, or head up to pick up one of the restaurant moorings and take a long line ashore to the west side. There is usually someone there to give you a hand if it all seems a bit daunting. The holding in the bay is uncertain in places, so make sure your anchor is set and holding. Serçe is where the so-called Glass Wreck was discovered in 1977. It was a Byzantine trading ship of around 15m which was carrying a cargo of Islamic glass. In trying to enter Serçe it must have hit a rock and sank quickly in 32m of water. The wreck can be seen in the museum of Underwater Archaeology in Bodrum. The fickle winds which swirl around the entrance here make it difficult even for handy modern craft to sail into the bay. For ancient craft it was all but impossible.
DAY TWO: SERÇE LIMANI TO KOCABAHÇE (16 MILES)
Navigation around Karaburun is straightforward, and although you will probably be sailing to windward for most of the way, the island of Simi
The southwestern corner of Turkey is an area perfectly suited to cruising
and Datça Yarimadasi will offer some protection from big seas. Keep an eye out for Atabol Kayasi, a nasty reef which is usually marked with an isolated danger mark. Once around here you will be off the wind. The Sailors’ Paradise restaurant has berths on the quay or on mooring buoys and offers good simple fare in wonderful surroundings.
DAY THREE: KOCABAHÇE TO DATÇA (15 MILES)
For those wanting a good sail this is the perfect leg – easy navigation and a straight beat west to the town of Datça. The alternative in heavy weather would be to potter around the bays near Kocabahçe and go direct to Keçi Bükü. In Datça go stern-to on the town quay using your own anchor. There can be gusts off the land with the Meltemi, but the harbour offers good shelter. Provisions, water and electricity can be topped up here if needed. Datça is a pleasant town with some tourism in the summer and good restaurants overlooking the harbour.
Datça is on the site of Old Knidos, the Dorian town settled in the 11th or 12th century BC, but unlike ‘new’ Knidos at the other end of the peninsula there is little of antiquity to see here.
DAY FOUR: DATÇA TO KEÇI BÜKÜ (22 MILES)
An easy downwind leg with ample opportunities to stop off for a swim in one of the bays along the north coast of the gulf. The entrance to the deep bay of Keçi Bükü is wide and free of dangers, but care is needed to avoid the long sand bar enclosing the southeast side of the bay. There are several restaurant jetties offering berths with laid moorings, or you can anchor free around the back of the island on the west side of the bay. The channel between the island and the coast is shallow and narrow at the north end. Those who wish to can drop into Marti Marina, a
There are harbours, anchorages and marinas conveniently spaced along the coast with plenty of options for shelter
sympathetically designed development on the eastern side of the entrance to the bay. Good shelter from most winds can be found in one place or another in here. There are a couple of minimarkets for those needing to stock up on the basics.
DAY FIVE: KEÇI BÜKÜ TO BOZUK BÜKÜ (21 MILES)
It can be a bit of a bash to windward to get back out of Hisarönü Körfezi, but an early start will allow you to make some miles before it starts blowing too hard. From Atabol Kayasi on you should be able to free off.
Bozuk Bükü is another deep bay with several restaurant jetties and mooring buoys and you will usually be met by one or more boat boys imploring you to come to their place. Take your time and see which one you fancy. There is also usually room to anchor, although the boat boys will try to persuade you otherwise!
Bozuk Bükü was known in ancient times as Loryma and was known more as a port of refuge than as a trading city. In Byzantine times it took the name Aplotheka (arsenal) after the fort which overlooks the bay. A walk up to investigate the huge stone blocks which remain in place here is well worthwhile.
DAY SIX: BOZUK BÜKÜ TO MARMARIS (26 MILES)
The final leg is an easy downwind ride back to Marmaris. Stop off for a swim in Gerbekse, also known as ‘Byzantine Cove’ after the extensive ruins on the shore here.
GOT A BIT LONGER?
You can extend the trip either by pressing on west past Knidos and into the Gulf of Gökova, or alternatively head east towards Fethiye and the sheltered cruising grounds of Skopea Limani.