FEARSOME WELSH PASSAGES
Jonty Pearce finds his planning and sailing skills tested on the west coast of Wales
As we crossed St Bride’s Bay the sun shone warmly and the great colourful balloon of our spinnaker drew us smoothly across the flat water. Ahead of us lay the gap of Jack Sound, the narrow channel between Skomer and Pembrokeshire’s Dale peninsula. Beset with sharp fangs both above and below the water, it is a passage that has earned notoriety. Carol looked at me. ‘Let’s go through under spinnaker.’ I looked back at her. The proposal to hamper our manoeuvrability with a restrictive sail plan between encroaching rocks in an area of eddies and cross currents did not seem initially attractive, but the sun was bright, the tide was fair, and we would be unlikely to have these conditions again. We lined up the transit and began, using the 4 knot tidal current, to sweep us well clear of the Crabstones, Cable Rock, and The Anvil. We emerged level with The Bench, glad to still be pointing the right way before sailing serenely onwards down Broad Sound with the spinnaker billowing strongly. We had done it! Carol and I exchanged a glance and a satisfied sigh of relief.
Sailing the coastline of Wales offers a heady mix of delight and peace combined with a smattering of challenging moments. No matter how often I sail its shores I always find something new to draw me back to accompany the joyful memories of previous trips. Our first adventure was sailing our 22ft E-boat from Milford Haven to Bardsey Island; after a few years we upgraded to a Southerly 105 ketch, Aurial. Both craft enjoy the advantage of a lifting keel, thereby opening up the possibilities of creek crawling and crossing shallow bars into the drying harbours so common on this west coast.
I regard Great Orme’s Head as the northern extent of my Welsh cruising ground. The ancient town of Conwy is tucked into the corner of Conwy Bay just to the south of this headland; massive 12th century castle walls dominate the Conwy River while the triple barrier of the Stephenson tubular railway bridge, Telford suspension bridge, and the
modern road bridge block upstream navigation for masted vessels. Two marinas and a number of mooring options make the town a good base, though the passage downstream is dependent on prevailing conditions and the state of the tide; 15 buoys mark the shifting estuary channel out to the Fairway buoy. Beaumaris, marking the open north-east end of the Menai Strait, can be seen to the south-west, but the direct route to the town is blocked by Dutchman Bank and Lavan Sands. Instead, the main access channel is reached by a detour going around Puffin Island. Once north-west of this island and before turning into Puffin Sound, you are faced with the big decision: do you go around Anglesey, or brave the Menai Strait and Swellies route?
Few stretches of water match their ominous reputation; the flood tide fills both ends of this narrow channel between Anglesey and mainland Wales at the same time, and the dark swirling waters of the Swellies sweep over and between the hidden underwater rocks and reefs at speeds of up to
8 knots. However, those familiar with the Strait may prefer to motor through it rather than opting for the more exposed Carmel Head route off Holyhead; apart from the short Swellies section, the Menai Straits are straightforward and sheltered. The approach of the Strait begins in Puffin Sound, leaving the black-andwhite striped lighthouse of Trwyn Du to starboard before following the buoyed channel down to Beaumaris; the mussel bed shoals of Lavan Sands are left to port. The recommended time to pass under the Menai Bridge to start the Swellies transit is 15 minutes before High Water Slack (Liverpool HW-2 hours); enjoy Beaumaris’ attractions or anchor in
The Pool opposite the town before proceeding past Bangor’s 1,500 foot long elegant Grade II listed Garth Pier to enter the gorge leading to the bridge. You’ll know your timing is right as a gaggle of other craft will usually congregate here before setting off like a group of ducklings following their mother when the magic moment strikes. If you are on your own, double check your calculations. The pilotage through the Swellies is exciting but straightforward as long as you follow your pilot book’s transits and instructions.
CASTLE VIEWS
All too soon, the Britannia Bridge soars above, and a pleasant sail takes you past Plas Newydd, Y Felinheli and the locked entrance to Port Dinorwic Marina before impressive Caernarfon looms to port. You might opt to tarry in the Victoria Dock in the shadow of the castle walls before attempting the perilous Caernarfon Bar that guards the southern exit of the Menai Strait. Caernarfon Harbour Trust publishes up to date positions of the buoys marking the shifting channel, and recommends that the bar should only be attempted three hours either side of high water and when wind and wave conditions are favourable. The next sheltered haven is Porthdinllaen, a handy promontory off the Llyn Peninsula’s north coast protecting an anchorage, moorings, and the popular beachside Ty Coch Inn.
The alternative route round Anglesey converges at Porthdinllaen after its track anticlockwise round the island; those choosing this passage need to time their departure carefully to take advantage of the tidal assistance along the north coast. After the overfalls off Middle Mouse, there is the opportunity to anchor in Cemlyn Bay to wait for the currents off Carmel Head to die down as at peak flow it has a truly horrific reputation. Holyhead Marina provides the alternative of a mooring unless opting to proceed through the overfalls of North Stack and passing South Stack’s dramatic lighthouse.
Sailing the coastline of Wales offers a heady mix of delight and peace combined with a smattering of challenging moments
A poor plan is to attempt the onward route south-west alongside the Llyn Peninsula to Bardsey Island when both the wind and current are foul; I once miscalculated and spent six hours on what should be a 90-minute passage. When we got to Bardsey Sound at ‘slack water’ we were swept through with over
5 knots under our keel. If you don’t fancy the rocky holding of Bardsey’s Henllwyn Cove, either head on to the wide blue yonder of Cardigan Bay – Fishguard lies at the other end some 45 miles away – or divert past St Tudwal’s Islands to the shelter of Pwllheli and its welcoming marina.
Cardigan Bay opens up a number of possible diversions; an incomplete list includes the delightful Porthmadog, Barmouth, Aberdyfi, Aberystwyth, Aberaeron, New Quay, Cardigan, and Newport before finally ending at the all-weather access into Fishguard. All justify exploration by sea and a chance to take in the local charms should conditions allow. This coast is where shallow draught and the ability to take the ground advantages visitors; most havens either dry out or are protected by sandbars. Strong westerly quadrant winds can make many approaches untenable, and beware the three encroaching shallow causeways of Sarn Badrig, Sarn y Bwlch, and Sarn Gynfelyn. The bay is surprisingly shallow at around 15 metres, and the bottom is still called ‘The Drowned Land’ with petrified tree stumps off the shore.
Pretty Lower Fishguard enjoys a useful anchorage and welcome shelter. The southward route continues past Strumble Head, St David’s Head, Ramsey Sound, Jack Sound and on to Milford Haven. It can
be done in one jump by using the tide, though haste runs the risk of missing out on much of this beautiful area’s appeal.
Sometimes referred to as ‘Little England beyond Wales’, Pembrokeshire’s coastline offers broad sandy beaches, safe havens, and hidden anchorages. Opportunities abound for beachside barbecues, estuary creek crawling, and challenging passages. Attention must be paid to the huge tidal range that speeds through fast-flowing sounds and around rocky headlands. Strumble Head, jutting out like a bastion into the Irish Sea, can induce confused and rough water. Pick your time and a good forecast and you can simply admire the lighthouse as you cruise by, but if you encounter wind over spring tide conditions you may wish that you were either three miles offshore or not there at all.
Ramsey Sound (along with Jack Sound and The Bishops) is the final ‘fearsome passage’ on the Welsh coast; care does need to be taken here. While the gap is up to seven cables wide, the vicious reef of The Bitches extends eastwards from Ramsey Island, restricting the navigable channel to two cables. Not only that, but the dangerous isolated Horse Rock occupies the sound’s centre – a real ship killer. With a peak spring current of six knots, it is best to pass at or near slack water. In calm conditions it is possible to go through against the flow and, if you know the terrain well, a fair tide can carry you through, but be very careful not to be swept onto the hazards. The calm waters of St Bride’s Bay separate Ramsey Sound
from the final threat, Jack Sound. It is usual to see up to half a dozen tankers anchored in St Bride’s Bay while they await their turn at Milford Haven’s oil berths. Again, getting the tide right facilitates the transit through Jack Sound; passage is swift with a fair tide, but tough with a foul one.
FINAL FLING
The final approach to Milford Haven heads south-west along the coast inshore of Skokholm Island down Broad Sound. This pleasant sail lacks the tankers and plethora of navigational marks encountered once Saint Ann’s Head is rounded into Milford Haven’s West Channel. Maintenance of a good shipping watch is vital, and it is sensible to listen on VHF Channel 12 for port movements. Less than two miles after passing Saint Ann’s Head Lighthouse the expansive anchorage of Dale opens up, offering a peaceful place to drop the hook before dinghying ashore for a welldeserved pint on the wall outside The Griffin Inn.
Opportunities abound for beachside barbecues, estuary creek crawling, and challenging passages