LA ROCHELLE
Gorgeous architecture, sandy beaches and mouthwatering seafood await those who explore France’s Atlantic port
Stunning architecture, great food and beaches await those who explore France’s Atlantic port
DO YOU ONLY HAVE A WEEK TO SPARE?
For those of us who are time poor but who want to seize the moment, either on our own boat or on a charter, it is reassuring to know that there are plenty of cruising hubs from where we can enjoy some of the best of the region in only a few days. This series, A Week Afloat, commissioned by Yachting Monthly and Imray, visits some ideal destinations and suggests a one-week itinerary. Each article, complete with expanded information about cruising each area, will be available as a PDF download via Imray’s website or Google Play Books.
La Rochelle is a beautiful and historic walled city and is the largest and most famous centre for sailing on France’s Atlantic coast. With a wide range of yacht charters based here, you will be spoilt for choice and it makes a perfect start and finish point for a week on the water.
Sufficiently far south, La Rochelle conjures up scenes of attractive nearby islands and anchorages, with golden beaches and warm sunshine. Don’t be put off by the enormity of Port Minimes, the most likely place to charter from, with over 4,000 boats in the marina. Escape from there as soon as you can and set sail with holiday esprit into the lovely region of Charente.
The suggested itinerary allows for a visit to the city of La Rochelle on the final night. This involves sailing into the old port between the very impressive and iconic towers of Tour Saint-nicolas and Tour de la Chaîne. A night within the walled city is a must to appreciate the stunning architecture, the Marché des Halles market, which boasts produce from all over the region, and to try out the restaurants and cafés where local fresh seafood is available in abundance.
Given reasonable weather, the sailing and navigation is not challenging, although a good understanding of tides is needed as many of the ports are tidal, requiring a sufficient height of water to access the marinas.
There are endless places to anchor, including
the fabulously beautiful Île de Ré and Île d’oléron. The suggested cruise will also take you up rivers to visit the historic towns of Marans and Rochefort. Exploring some of the rivers gives a different perspective to more usual coastal sailing. Most marinas have bicycles available for hire, providing a great way to appreciate the surrounding countryside.
DAY 1: LA ROCHELLE TO ANSE L’OUBYE, ÎLE DE RÉ (6 MILES)
The first day is a gentle passage of only six miles to a beach anchorage at Anse L’oubye. Leaving La Rochelle takes you across some shallows and care must be taken, but the channel is well marked. Within a couple miles, on the starboard side, you’ll see the old fishing harbour of La Pallice. Behind it lie Second World War German U-boat pens. Soon afterwards, looking north, the impressive bridge to the Île de Ré comes into view. If there is time and the wind is favourable, you could sail on under the bridge for a lunch stop at an anchorage just north of La Flotte-en-ré. This will add an extra 10 miles to your day’s passage.
Anchoring on sand in the Anse L’oubye sets the scene for the week ahead. It is a superb opportunity to have a swim and a walk along this popular beach before sundown. You will not be constrained by the tide, so you will be ready to make the most of the following day.
DAY 2: ANSE L’OUBYE TO ROCHEFORT (22 MILES)
You will need to arrive at the lock entrance at Rochefort before High Water La Rochelle. It will be a smooth beam reach if the wind is southwesterly, with Île d’oléron protecting you to windward. If tides permit, there’s a lovely lunch spot at the southern tip of Île d’aix at Pointe Ste-catherine. Depending on winds, anchor either just west or east of the fort to find the best shelter. The Charente river is adorned with fishing huts and fields of sunflowers lining the banks. Seven miles up river at Martrou is a transporter bridge, the last of its kind in France. It is an airborne platform suspended about four metres above the water and moved by a trolley mechanism 45 metres above it. Give way when it is in use! Built as a secret dockyard, Rochefort was raised from the marshes. The old dock is home to the replica of the 1779 frigate, L’hermione. Rochefort has an excellent range of shops, cafés and restaurants overlooking the marina.
DAY 3: ROCHEFORT TO LE DOUHET (20 MILES)
A gentle cruise back down the Charente, re-tracing your tracks, will bring you to the river entrance at Port-des-barques. Tide permitting, you will find a lunch spot on either the north or south bank. After lunch, leaving Île Madame to port, set a course towards Fort Boyard, built in Napoleonic times to help defend Rochefort. You can leave it to port or starboard, but take care to avoid the sand banks which surround it.
Le Douhet is accessible from about half tide. Once in the marina, you will find a very attractive setting amongst pine trees. There are a few shops and restaurants near the harbour.
La Rochelle conjures up scenes of attractive nearby islands and anchorages, with golden beaches and warm sunshine
However, the beauty of Île d’oléron lies in its beaches and forests. Walk through the sweet-smelling pines of the Forêt des Saumonards, and return along the swell protected sandy beaches. Bicycles are also available to hire.
DAY 4: LE DOUHET TO ST MARTIN-DE-RÉ (16 MILES)
There are two routes to St Martin-de-ré; either east of Île de Ré and under the imposing
Ré Bridge, or west and round the north-west tip of the island. The westabout route is about 30 miles. Stop for lunch at Anse du Martray if going west or Anse L’oubye if going east. If you arrive early at St Martin, there are four white visitors buoys off the entrance.
St Martin is one of the most attractive harbours in France and is crowded in high season. However, it’s worth the hassle of manoeuvring the boat to the inner harbour to be amidst the bustle of the town. The harbour’s Vauban fortifications are impressive. Vauban was a French military engineer responsible for many 17th century forts on the Atlantic coast of France. There is plenty to see in town, with a good range of shops and restaurants. Find a spot at one of the many cafés overlooking the harbour and soak up the atmosphere.
DAY 5: ST MARTIN-DE-RÉ TO MARANS (15 MILES)
As soon as the lock gate is opened there will be a bustle of boats trying to leave St Martin, with more boats waiting to enter. Once through, point the bow towards Marans. A short trip across to the entrance to the River Sèvre Niortaise can be extended by enjoying the sailing in the Anse de L’aiguillon. The navigation to Marans sounds complicated, but if you time it right it is straightforward. There is a lifting bridge, a lock gate and a sliding footbridge at the entrance to the marina in the town centre.
Set sail with holiday esprit into the lovely region of Charente
The Marais Poitevin is a huge marshland conservation area; to the west of Marans the land has been drained to form a ‘dry marsh’ of flat fields and salt marsh. The ‘wet marsh’ extends east of Marans and is a mass of canals that wind through the lush landscape. Marans is a quiet town with good shops and a covered fish market.
DAY 6: MARANS TO LA ROCHELLE (20 MILES)
Marans’ harbourmaster will give you the opening times for the sliding footbridge. Once through, you can then navigate your way back to the river entrance. This final day of your holiday cruise should provide a fantastic sail back to La Rochelle inside Île de Ré. If time permits, you could stop for lunch at La Flotteen-ré or at Anse L’oubye for a last swim. As you sail into La Rochelle, leave the enormous marina of Port de Minimes to starboard and continue up the channel where the two imposing towers, marking the entrance to the Vieux Port, provide a breathtaking scene. In high season, it would be sensible to call ahead to book a place for the night.
In the town of La Rochelle, the architecture is very attractive and there are winding paths beneath shady trees leading to parks. The maritime museum, comprising eight beautiful old ships, is situated afloat in the old port. La Rochelle is a great place to finish your week, and you are on the spot, ready to return your charter boat to Port de Minimes in the morning.
GOT A BIT LONGER?
There are other harbours and fine-weather anchorages on Île de Ré and Île d’oléron, but the harbours have restricted tidal access. Cruising south towards Marennes is not recommended for Day Skipper level and is quite a challenge even for the more experienced yachtsman, with low bridges and constantly shifting sand banks. A better option would be to head 30 miles north from the Île de Ré bridge to Les Sables d’olonne, the home of the Vendée Globe race and a lively and attractive town.