Around the corner
The first treat is savouring spectacular north Brittany on the way down-channel. From the UK south coast and via the English Channel you can cross to Guernsey, perhaps via Cherbourg, and then heading for Lézardrieux or Tréguier before meandering west. Perros-guirec and Trébeurden are attractive ports of call with lovely beaches.
Roscoff marina is handy before you cut inside Île de Batz and carry the ebb down to L’aber Wrac’h, the last Channel haven on the French side. I have always liked L’aber Wrac’h and its low rocky coast so intriguingly penetrated by inlets and sounds.
The fascinating sail down through the Chenal du Four to Camaret is an easy 32 miles in fair weather, largely protected from the west by a string of islands. You emerge into the grand Brest approaches past Pointe St Mathieu, with its red-capped lighthouse and monastery ruins. Camaret is nine miles across the bay, always a charming spot to linger.
South Brittany and the Morbihan
The Raz de Sein is the next and last significant tidal gate, 17 miles from Camaret by the Toulinguet Pass. Aim to arrive at the Raz at dead slack water, but beyond this strategic gap the streams are weak across the Bay of Audierne. From Pointe de Penmarc’h a trail of buoys and beacons leads into Bénodet Bay, where you can make for Loctudy, Bénodet itself or the large marina at Port la Fôret.
This fabulous bay feels worlds away from the English Channel. The sea looks bluer and long white beaches curve between Loctudy and Concarneau. A few miles offshore, Glénan is a paradise of sandy islands and turquoise lagoons.
Cruising on from Bénodet you keep between a wide coastal shoal and the rocks around Île aux Moutons. The tempting track to Île de Groix is then a little south of east and in good visibility the island’s bold profile soon appears ahead. Groix lies three miles off Lorient entrance and its picturesque Port Tudy has a colourful waterfront of cafés and bistros. The village is a short climb uphill and you can hire bikes, scooters or a car to get about.
Next I’d make for Belle Île, a much larger, wilder