John Robinson
Dave Lee chats with chef John Robinson from fine dining restaurant Whites, in Beverley.
John Robinson has been working in kitchens around East Yorkshire since the age of 13. Born in North Ferriby and raised in nearby Kirkella, John has travelled as far as Scotland and New Zealand to learn his trade.
It was much closer to home, though, at Winteringham Fields, which takes its name from a village in Lincolnshire, where he perhaps gained the most knowledge and confidence.
Working under double Michelin-starred chef Germaine Schwab was invaluable and the experience spurred him on to open his own restaurant, at the age of just 23.
Whites, which is just outside Beverley’s North Bar opened in 2008 and is now considered one of the top two or three fine dining restaurants in the East Riding. It’s intimate – seating only 24 – because John insists that he has to create all of the dishes himself.
It is best known for the ever-changing nine-course tasting menu, which is always a dazzling array of dishes dreamt up to utilise the very best local and national ingredients, some of which John grows himself.
John even designs entirely new dishes and themes the menu for special events, based on subjects such as with his 12 Dishes of Christmas (based on carols, stories or traditions) becoming a highlight of the local culinary year.
Can you remember the first dish you ever cooked – and was it a success? It’s a cliché but there are genuinely photos of me cooking mince pies and the likes with my mum aged three, or four. I remember my mum teaching me to cook things like risotto when I was about seven. For some unknown reason, when I was then allowed to start cooking without help I would hide those rock hard silver balls used for cake decorating in the food whether it was pasta, risotto or sausages. Luckily I quickly realised this was not the way forward.
Who is your inspiration in the kitchen and why? I am inspired by anyone who has ever become a good chef. It’s a hard industry that takes a lot of dedication and sacrifice but it’s worth it. I was particularly sad to hear of the recent passing of the legend Michel Roux whose passion and desire for excellence was an inspiration to me early on. His dish of a tray of marzipan figs was a particularly jaw-dropping moment.
What was the first recipe book you ever owned? I think it was a
Jane Asher cook book. However, it’s the Le Manoir Aux Quat Saison book by the one and only Raymond Blanc that my parents bought me when I was very young that really resonated with me and set me on the path for working at the highest level.
If you organised a dinner party, which three people would you invite & why? A cliché, but it’s true – my wife would be the first on the list. Never have I met a kinder, more wonderful person than her. Being married to a chef can’t be easy but she is great and I wouldn’t enjoy any meal without her being next to me. I would like Raymond Blanc there as not only is he extremely funny but he’s knowledgeable about growing produce, which is something we are developing year on year with our roof-top terrace and allotments. And then, lastly, I’m a huge sports fan, so I’m tempted by someone like Roger Federer as not only has he reached the top but he has stayed there for such a long time. He also oozes style and sophistication and just seems like a really decent guy who you feel conducts himself in the right manner all the time. A class act.