Foodie thoughts

C O D & LO B S T E R . . . P L U S KIPPERS AND PIZZA

It was with more than a degree of trepidation that we set off for the Yorkshire coast last week. Like you, we emerged, blinking, into the bright sunlight, wondering what the world might look like after months of Netflix and iPlayer. A daily walk round the block does not a life make, though I had to keep reminding myself that I’m on a hillside in Halifax, not a high-rise in Hackney.

I expected the roads to be jammed given the images of mass outings to the seaside. The scenes in Bournemouth and Brighton were pretty scary with not much in the way of social distancing, but as we hit Whitby it was clear that Yorkshire folk were using their heads.

On a warm July day it was uncharacteristically quiet, and the walk along the cobbles to score kippers from Fortunes with the heady, smoky smell of them wafting down Henrietta Street made my heart swell.

Staithes was quiet too, and as we dropped down the bank the kick of ozone and screech of seagulls banished lockdown blues. The pubs in the village had been gearing up to open and it was a joy to see people sitting – appropriately distanced – outside the Royal George.

We made for the harbour, and the Cod & Lobster, where it’s a one-way system; in the back door, out the front, screens at the bar, all staff in PPE, courteous and mindful. We sat outside with a pint or two and watched the sun go down over the sea.

Later, fabulous take-out home-made pizzas from the kiosk at Cobbles wolfed down with some fizz in our yard, with friends I hadn’t seen since March.

Next morning, kippers. For lunch, warm pasties from Lyth’s Butchers and later, an ice cream from Dottie’s Tea Room and a bag of liquorice from Betsy & Bo. Easy does it, we’ve a long way to go and it’s far from over, but hell, it felt good.