Boom time by Etna
Sicily isn’t just worth exploring for its history and countryside, it produces some brilliant wines to boot.
When restrictions are lifted and we can travel, I think I might head first to Sicily. After all it is not too far, so if plans have to change then it is easy to get home. And summer comes early in Sicily, so if there is a chance of getting away by May or June, the weather will be glorious. Another benefit is that, once you get out into the countryside, there is plenty of space and there is a constant breeze, moderating the heat of the sun.
Sicily has transformed its winemaking in the last 20 years. It used to be the source of huge quantities of strong, indeterminate wines that were blended away, adding depth and power to many weaker Italian wines. But now it has an identity of its own, mainly brought about by a few determined winemakers who have carved out a personality for Sicilian wines by adopting high standards of viticulture and winemaking.
Stefano Girelli is one of these winemakers. Around 25 years ago he swapped his role in the family company making large volumes of perfectly adequate Italian wines, to focus on Sicily, and above all, organic viticulture.
Now Sicily is his only focus. He has bought two wine estates, which is an achievement in itself, since he is from the north of Italy. The most recent acquisition of a small family-run estate took six years of negotiation with the 82-year-old owner who insisted that Girelli not only kept to her long-established organic routines, but also kept the name of the estate. That wouldn’t normally be a problem, but the name of the estate, Cortese, is the same as the name of a grape, which adds a layer of confusion.
Both properties are in Vittoria, in the province of Ragusa, south-eastern Sicily. All of the island is gorgeous. Its vast swathes of countryside and long sandy beaches are remarkably empty and it has a serious dose of history with Roman amphitheatres and temples cropping up all over. There is also Mount Etna which occasionally gives cause for concern, but when I was last there, it just boomed from time to time and there was aglowfromthe summit at night.
Stefano Girelli is convinced that
Sicily is perfect for organic viticulture with no chemicals or pesticides used in the vineyards. “We have sunshine for ripening, but we can also create shade in the vineyards. We have long dry autumns so there is never any pressure on picking dates; we just wait for the perfect time.
“We also have nutrient-rich soil, on a bed of limestone which can trap moisture so the vines can survive the mainly dry summer. We have also invested in a local reservoir so the vines are irrigated using rainwater, and don’t deplete the natural water supply in the soil.”
With routine planting of beans to enrich the soil, a naturally beneficial climate and a determination to bring back some of Sicily’s traditional grape varieties, his two estates, Santa Tresa and Cortese, are now making some of Sicily’s most fascinating wines.
Sicily has a number of traditional indigenous grapes, some of which you may not have come across before so this is what they taste like.
Carricante: A white grape whose name means “heavily laden”, and the vine does produce a lot of grapes, but if pruned well it makes a wine full of fresh citrus fruit with a fine, elegant structure and a honeyed note.
Grillo: Sicily’s famous white grape widely planted for use in Marsala, but it can also be used for table wine. It has lively, lemon acidity with good structure and herbal notes.
Frappato: A red grape with fresh fruity, floral notes, Frappato makes a light, cherry red wine with strawberry flavours and a definite streak of freshness – almost Beaujolais in character. It is used in a blend with Nero d’Avola to create the specialist wine of Vittoria, Cerasuolo di Vittoria.
Nerello Mascalese: Indigenous to
Taste the Difference Tanunda Chardonnay 2019, 13.5%, Sainsbury’s, down from £7 to £6 until February 6: A rounded, creamy peach and baked apple style of Chardonnay. Subtle oak, enough to partner roast chicken.