Stephen Andrews
Stephen Andrews, of Fish and Forest in York, talks to Elaine Lemm.
I am shocked it is one year since I last reviewed a restaurant for The Yorkshire Post, the longest gap since I began. That restaurant was Fish and Forest, in York, a young two-man business with Stephen Andrews at the stove and Johan out front.
Having first trialled their concept of serving the best in sustainably sourced seafood, fish, game and local veg at Spark, also in York, they decided to expand. They opened a small restaurant in a local pub, and just before lockdown, signed the lease for new and bigger premises. All was hopeful and the future bright.
We know what happened next, and though I worried for the hospitality industry, Fish and Forest was very much in my mind. Thanks to social media, I saw how they were getting on – more on that in the last question. I liked what I saw and have everything crossed that soon I will visit them (and others) again.
What was the first dish you cooked? The first dish I remember cooking was lasagne. At eight years old, I did not know what to do or how to use a knife. I remember preparing the vegetables and thinking I was the “Naked Chef ”. Then I slipped with the knife, and I have a lovely scar on my finger to remind me of that first time in the kitchen.
Where or who do you get your culinary inspiration from? I drew much inspiration from my travels a few years ago, backpacking around the world for a year. It taught me so much about food and how it impacts people’s lives. Not being able to travel now, I find walking in the countryside or woodlands inspiring. Chefs that inspire me are Sat Bains, a self-taught chef who achieved incredible things, and the late Anthony Bourdain for what he has done for kitchen culture.
What was your first cookery book? The first cookbook that I remember buying was Larousse Gastronomique. I’m a self-taught chef and thought this would be perfect for helping me learn the essentials and the techniques needed in a professional kitchen.
Who would be your three dream dinner guests? My first guest has to be my gran; she was hilarious after a half lager and black. Next, Anthony Bourdain, such an interesting character who had so many views and thoughts on the world; it would be amazing to pick his brain. Finally, it would have to be Chris Stapleton – he would be a lot of fun, and he can sing for the table.
What is your guilty food pleasure? My guilty pleasure is somewhat shameful, but I like to get a Rustlers now and then. They are quick and convenient, and actually they don’t taste bad at all.
What is your favourite tool or gadget in the kitchen? My favourite has to be my knives which are pretty much an extension of my arm.
What have you done during the lockdowns, and what are your plans once you are open again? I had signed the lease to my restaurant right before the first lockdown, so Yohan and I did a full refurb which was not easy with limited supplies. During the second one, we did more refurb and used the opportunity to reflect on our first two months of trading to improve the restaurant. We also started an online épicerie selling fresh fish, at home boxes, cured meats, fish and oysters. During this lockdown, we have simplified our “at home” offer and are making pies while sticking to our fresh fish and game food philosophy, developing menus and refining the restaurant’s style and identity. We want to open up with a bang and continue pushing to be the best we can as a purveyor of sustainable fish, seafood, game and veg.