Yorkshire Post - YP Magazine

Foodie thoughts

RIGHT INGREDIENT­S FOR RESILIENCE

- With Amanda Wragg

Restaurate­urs are renowned for being resourcefu­l ( just think about how creative you have to be to change a menu every week, or month, and maintain the quality of your offer). But the suffocatin­g blanket of Covid has challenged the most resilient amongst them.

Many have adapted – moving to take-outs and ‘‘finish at home’’ kits – some of them posting nationwide – so we’ve been able to recreate our favourite nights out – in. I’ve ‘‘eaten’’ at Eric’s in Lindley, Prashad in Drighlingt­on and Roots in York. I’ve even sat down with a Rick Stein fish supper (‘‘From Cornwall with love’’) about as far from the sea as you can get.

Some of my favourite places have diversifie­d further: The Moorcock at Norland co-opted its wood-fired oven to make pizzas, and the fine-dining Shibden Mill Inn built a cool cabin in their gorgeous garden, creating ‘‘Crust & Craft’’ and selling sourdough pizza and craft beer.

A regular feature of my weekends has been a take-out from Gimbals in Sowerby Bridge. Janet and Simon Baker have been running this great little neighbourh­ood restaurant for 25 years so they know a thing or two about moving with the times.

Janet champions local producers and growers so the tables are groaning with charcuteri­e from Porcus, cheese from Pextenemen­t and Yorkshire Dama and rhubarb from Tomlinsons.

Stock up on Gimbals hummus, focaccia, balsamic sauce, pineapple ketchup and pickles, and there’s an eye-watering selection of Spanish store cupboard staples from the brilliant Brindisa label: chorizo, olives, Ortiz tinned fish and Torres crisps.

Hats off to restaurate­urs up and down the country – from Michelin starred joints to corner bistros – who’ve made lemonade out of lemons.

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