Curry leaf mussels and fries
chillies, ginger and the white parts of the spring onions and fry for 60 seconds or so until fragrant. Add most but not all of the green parts of the spring onions and the garlic, fry for 30 seconds, then push to one side of the wok and add the prawns and any residual marinade, which will ideally fit in one layer. Cook for 60 seconds or so, stirring occasionally, until they begin to turn pink and start to tighten. Add the sauce, mix everything together and let it bubble and thicken a little for around 90 seconds. Throw in the peanuts and remove from the heat.
Give your chilli oil a good stir to dredge up the bits from the bottom and add two tablespoons (including sediment) to the wok, stirring until it’s well mixed. Serve over plain rice, with the remaining spring onion greens and the coriander as a garnish.
Ingredients METHOD
Clean the mussels by leaving them to soak in cold water for 20 minutes, lifting them out from the bowl after 10 minutes, discarding the dirty, gritty water and refilling it with cold water (and the mussels). Repeat this action five minutes later, and then again. Keep the bowl in the fridge during this time, save for the last soak, when you should pull out any straggly beards from the mussels. Discard any mussels that remain open when tapped. This can be done in advance, though you must store the mussels in the fridge until needed.
Cook your fries – I find they usually need a few minutes longer than the packet suggests. When the fries are nearly done, choose a wide saucepan or wok with a lid that will fit the mussels in no more than three layers. Place this on a medium heat and add the vegetable oil. Let this warm for 30 seconds before adding the onions, ginger, a pinch of salt, the mustard seeds and curry leaves. Cook for two minutes, stirring from time to time to prevent the onions or leaves burning. Add the garlic and, 30 seconds later, the spices. Cook these for a minute, stirring frequently, then add the tomato puree. After one minute more, increase the heat to high and then add the water, cream and mussels. Stir the contents thoroughly, place the lid on top and cook for three minutes, shaking once or twice. If the mussels have not fully opened after that time, use a spoon to scoop them from the bottom of the pan to the top (so as to swap open with closed) remove from the heat but put the lid back on top for a further minute, leaving the remaining mussels to steam open. Discard any that refuse to open.
Ladle into bowls, ensuring everyone has a fair share of the glossy, fragrant and rustcoloured sauce, with piles of well-salted fries nearby.
■ Crave, recipes arranged by flavour, to suit your mood and appetite, by Ed Smith (Quadrille, £26), with photography by Sam A Harris.