Quick sortie south
From rolling hills, thatched pubs, historic market towns and picture postcard hamlets to the last remaining Lancaster bomber, Liz Coggins discovers the hidden gems of the Lincolnshire Wolds
BOASTING more than 200 square miles of unspoilt country with picturesque landscapes, there’s a plethora of things to enjoy in the Lincolnshire Wolds for those who love the great outdoors, whether it be hiking or biking, gentle walks or serious treks along the 235km-long Viking Way.
But venture beyond the idyllic countryside and there’s a world of culture, heritage and market towns.
The Lincolnshire Wolds is perfect for a weekend or short break because you can see so much of its wonders without clocking up lots of miles.
Our voyage of discovery started in Market Rasen, home to Lincolnshire’s only racecourse – so if you fancy a holiday flutter, this is the place to go.
The high street is warm and welcoming and lined with family-run shops with a market that first started in the 1300s.
We stayed at the Advocate Arms, a pub with rooms, dating back to the 18th century. The Advocate is famous for its food and popular with locals at all times of day.
The large bar serves lunches and bar snacks but in the evening the dining changes and the restaurant becomes a haven for fine dining by candlelight.
The menu features local produce and a good selection of dishes all cooked to perfection that overfill the large plates whilst the desserts are simply heaven on a plate.
After a Lincolnshire breakfast, we meandered down the main street but if you are spending time in Market Rasen, pack a picnic and enjoy the many woodland walks and cycle paths or meander down the country lanes to explore the surrounding area.
Three miles away is Lincolnshire’s oldest thatched pub – the Kings Head in Tealby, often described as the county’s prettiest village.
Our next port of call was Horncastle which dates back to Roman times and claimed in the Doomsday Book to be owned by King William.
Horncastle is a perfect example of a quintessential market town that time has passed by, with narrow cobbled streets lined with independent retailers, most retaining their original wooden shop fronts dating all the way back to the 1930s.
In the centre is Tanya’s Tearoom owned, you may have guessed, by Tanya, who bakes most of the mouth-watering treats – her lemon meringue pie could have come from the Angel’s Kitchen.
A favourite with locals, it’s the place to eavesdrop on the local gossip as you sip your cuppa.
But if you want to hear about the town’s past, the 13th century church of St Marys or the remains of the old Roman wall are both well worth a visit.
About 15 minutes drive away from Horncastle is Woodhall Spa – a spa town with a touch of Edwardian gentility where you will find the Petwood Hotel, originally the home of the famous 617 Squadron.
Formerly the country retreat of a wealthy heiress, it has glorious gardens and in 1942 it was requisitioned by the RAF and became an officers’ mess for the Dam Busters.
With its oak-panelled corridors and spacious lounges. it still retains a 1940s ambience, so much so that as I made my way to the Dam Busters Bar I almost imagined bumping into a fighter pilot .
Sensitively preserved with memorabilia, documents and photos, everything is still in the same place as it was during the war.
I experienced an almost surreal experience sitting in the bar which left me feeling nostalgic and rather emotional after reading the letters, handwritten stories and looking at photographs of these young and brave heroes.
Near Petwood is the Kinema in the Woods, an old-fashioned picture house and the only full-time cinema in the UK that uses rear projection.
It’s well worth checking out and if you visit on a selected Saturday, an organist rises from the floor and plays in the interval.
‘Formerly the country retreat of a wealthy heiress, it was requisitioned by the RAF and became an officers’ mess for the Dam Busters.’
On the edge of the Wolds is Coningsby, around 30 minutes from Louth and worth a visit to see the only fully operational Lancaster bomber in the country and follow the county’s RAF links at the Battle of Britain Memorial Flight Visitor Centre.
On our second night, we stayed at Kenwick Park, near Louth, which boasts a large spa with great facilities, two pools and lots of pampering treatments.
Kenwick Park has hotel and lodge accommodation set within beautiful grounds. The Keepers Bar overlooks rolling lawns and terraces whilst the Fairways Restaurant has a substantial menu with good vegan and vegetarian choices.
Next it was the town of Louth, with its Georgian and Victorian houses and described by The Hairy Bikers as “a foodie Mecca”, to buy some Lincolnshire Plum Loaf and visit the famous Cheese Shop.
Fortunately there was also just time to see St James' Church with the tallest medieval parish spire in the country and visit Louth Museum to check out the town’s history.
Loving the English seaside, our last visit was to the picturesque village of Sutton-on-Sea – just 15 miles from Louth – with its long, clean Blue Flag beach.
An old-fashioned seaside resort, it dates back to Queen Victoria and has resisted overdevelopment and could easily be confused with the fabled Walmington-on-Sea of Dad’s Army fame.