Majestic recovery
With two Masters of Wine freshly arrived from Marks & Spencer, the once-faltering wine merchant is upping the ante, as Christine Austin discovered at a recent tasting.
LAST year I reported that Majestic was back on form after its brief encounter with a mail order company which had dragged its reputation to depths not seen before. After this year’s tasting it is clear that there has been even more progress with a strengthening of the buying team, now boasting two Masters of Wine, both with many years of experience at Marks & Spencer.
Now Majestic is once again the place to go to for a range of quality wines, most of which cannot be found in larger supermarkets, but which offer great flavours at keen prices. Of course, the Majestic rule is that you have to buy by the six-pack to get the best deals. If you only want one bottle, you will definitely pay a premium, but with parking outside most Majestics, and a fleet of vans that will deliver your wine locally, buying a six-pack, which can be mixed, is actually no hardship.
Another plus for Majestic is that the stores are staffed with wine enthusiasts, most of whom seem to be studying for the next level of their wine qualifications. There are always a few bottles open for tasting in-store, so you can try some before you buy.
Here are some of the wines that stood out at their recent tasting.
WHITES
■ Chosen by Majestic Picpoul de Pinet, 2022, France, £8.99: Arriving in store in a few weeks, this is the wine for hot summer days. Crunchy with citrus fruit and with a streak of salty, minerally zest, team it alongside grilled sardines and sunshine.
■ Tahbilk “The Tower” Marsanne 2022, Victoria, Australia, £9.99 on a mix six deal: This wine has been around for so long, I had forgotten just how good it is. Citrus and passionfruit on the nose followed by ripe pear, honeysuckle and lime with a crunchy finish. ■ Spier Signature Albariño 2022, Stellenbosch, South Africa, £9.99 on a mix six deal: Albariño has proved that it can travel from its home in Rías Baixas, Spain, to many wine regions of the world and still make fragrant, exciting wines that capture its crisp, aromatic, nectarine and lime-edged flavours. This is one of the few Albariño wines from South Africa, made from grapes grown close to the ocean. With floral aromas, rounded yellow fruits and a crisp, citrus finish, line it up against grilled fish.
■ Yealands Estate S1 Single Block Sauvignon Blanc, 2021, Awatere Valley, New Zealand, £13.99 on a mix six deal: There are several grades of quality in the Yealands range, which is hardly surprising since this organic estate spreads over 1,000 hectares of rolling hills in the Awatere part of Marlborough. This comes from the Seaview Block which, as its name suggests, is buffeted by cool coastal breezes, so the grapes develop vibrant, lively nectarine and pineapple fruit with layers of herbal tones and a crunchy finish. Yealands has been designed from the ground up to be sustainable and energy efficient, with biodiversity, tree planting and water preservation at the forefront. These wines are not just good to drink, they don’t damage the environment.
■ Domaine Begude “Le Paradis” Viognier 2022, Limoux, France, £14.99 on a mix six deal: Twenty years ago, James and Catherine Kinglake sold their house in London and bought a 29-hectare vineyard on rolling
slopes in the cool region of Limoux. They work organically and make a terrific range of wines including this elegant part oak-fermented Viognier that combines honeysuckle and peach notes with a firm streak of citrus. James and Catherine have strong Yorkshire connections, so you may occasionally come across them hosting a tasting in a local Majestic store.
REDS
■ Chosen by Majestic, Rioja Crianza 2020, Spain, £7.99 on a mix six deal: Chosen is a new range of wines that fit between £7 and £10 and define great- value flavours sourced from established suppliers. This is a cherry and strawberry-filled wine with gentle oak rounding out the palate and a good long finish.
■ Winemakers Series Swartland Red
2020, South Africa, £8.99 on a mix six deal: Marc Kent, who was the driving force behind Boekenhoutskloof, Chocolate Block and Porcupine Ridge for two decades, has set off to work on his own projects. This wine not only has his name on it, there is also a rather moody and dramatic photo of him on the label. Syrahbased with Cabernet Sauvignon and Cinsault, it is a gutsy, dark wine full of plum, spice and chocolate and, at £8.99, is an absolute bargain.
■ Marcelo Pelleriti Malbec 2021, Mendoza, Argentina, £9.99 on a mix six deal: When a winemaker has been given a 100-point score by Robert Parker, his winemaking skills are like gold dust. This one bears his name and, at just £9.99, it is probably the best value wine that Pelleriti makes. Almost chunky with mulberry fruit, layered with savoury complexity, it is a wine that needs and deserves a top-quality steak.
■ Château de Pennautier Cabardès, 2020, Languedoc Roussillon, France, £10.99 on a mix six deal: Close to Carcassonne and built in the style of Versailles in the 17th century, Ch de Pennautier is packed with history, but the wines are definitely up to date. Winemaker Bertrand Seube used to be at Ch Mouton Rothschild, so he brings a host of quality winemaking skills and has applied them to this Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon Grenache and Syrah blend. The result is a wine with deep, dark fruit, with weight and a savoury finish.
■ Les Saules Vacqueyras 2021, France, £13.99 on a mix six deal: Always delivering terrific flavours, this small Rhône appellation makes wine that could be mistaken for rather prestigious names. With a definite nod towards CNDP, this Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre blend has serious complex flavours. Buy lots and try to keep it a year or so.
The Majestic website is back in a new and better format, so you can browse before calling in to your local store or order online, www.majestic. co.uk