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The best way to navigate tricky transition­al dressing? The big trend right now is to layer up a capsule wardrobe of simple, stylish pieces. does the fashion maths

Amy E Williams

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We should be experts at layering, us Brits, especially during this inbetween time of year. Ever prepared for a blustery morning followed by a balmy afternoon, the notion of adding on and peeling off should be second nature. But, boy, is layering trickier than it looks. In reality it is far from a case of bunging a coat-over-a-cardie-over-a-camisole and hoping for the best; fabrics must be carefully chosen, proportion­s well-judged and accessorie­s cleverly added.

Played right, it will make you look enviably pulled-together; slimmer, taller, smarter, younger. Get it wrong and the opposites could all be true – at worst, we’re talking walking jumble sale.

Luckily, thanks to a high street bursting at its neatly sewn seams with brilliant basics, it is easier than ever to build a layer-friendly wardrobe. By investing in a foundation (the word most oft used by fashion experts when it comes to the art of layering) consisting of easy-to-wear pieces that complement those you already own, and following some simple rules, layering can become less of a conundrum and more a daily solution to looking spot-on.

Eileen Fisher, a US label that opened its first UK stores five years ago, is a brand whose entire raison d’être is providing versatile, suit-all, trend-free separates, which, while working individual­ly, are best teamed together. You could do worse than turn up at an Eileen Fisher store and stock up on each one of its seven wardrobe icons: a tunic, a kimono-style wool jacket, a slim, sleeveless knit, a stretchy pencil skirt, a long cardigan and a simple knee-length dress. ‘We spend a great deal of time building brilliant, essential foundation pieces,’ the brand’s director of merchandis­ing Tracy Breslin says. ‘The way we see it, the whipped cream on any outfit is the easy part, whereas the basics are harder to get right – and that is where we come in.’

According to Tracy, the key to great layering is getting your proportion­s right: ‘I like the idea of dramatic proportion­s,’ she says, but advises to avoid swamping yourself. Tactical layering should be slimming, so if you are wearing wide-legged trousers, team them with, say, a close-fitting shirt, fine-knit cardigan and tailored jacket. Flip the look around and a voluminous cape worn with an oversized shirt and a chunky knit works only if paired with a pencil skirt, skinny jean or cigarette pant.

And it goes without saying that the finer the

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