Susie’s spotlight
Our reviewer taks up tasty dishes as region reopens.
An occasional feature that appears when Susie Davidson Powell is taking a week off from regular dining reviews, Susie’s Spotlight looks at favorite dishes from recent meals. Powell’s reviews will return next week.
Spotlight: Island Style Poutine Fries ($10), The Night Owl, 17 Maple Ave., Saratoga Springs. saratoganightowl.com.
A Susie Says: “Fries and curds puddle under rich oxtail braising gravy. I’ve never inhaled fries so fast. You’ll need a fork. Thanks to a pandemic partnership between Jamaican chef Bjorn Burke and the owners of The Night Owl cocktail lounge and nightclub, you too can get your paws on Jamaican sticky wings and slow-braised oxtail sliders while sipping island cocktails as DJS spin dance hall, roots, reggaeton, bachata and soul. Welcome to summer 2021.”
Spotlight: Mango Mule ($10), The Merc, 430 Broadway, Saratoga Springs. themercsaratoga.com.
A Susie says: “The Merc continues its strong bar program with new nonalcoholic cocktails on the menu. In line with the honey syrup trend, the Mango Mule blends cucumber, mango puree, fresh lime, honey syrup and Fever Tree ginger beer for a cooling riff on a Moscow Mule. 0 percent proof.” The Mango Mule has rotated off the summer drinks list, but the bar staff is still happy to make it by request.
Spotlight: Vegan burgers ($9-$14), Wizard Burger, 74 N. Pearl St., Albany. wizardburger.square.site.
A Susie says: “Obey the command to ‘Abandon hunger all ye who enter’ with Impossible burgers or seitan chick-fillets stacked with onion rings as the Orc Popper, a chili-topped Mumbo Jumbo, or get a sticky, late-night sugar fix with Sunbutter and jelly on a Strawberry Snail vegan glazed doughnut.”
Spotlight: Pizza ($12-$20), Nonne Pizza & Cucina, 10 Main St., Chatham. nonneny.com.
A Susie says: “If Sophia Loren were to weekend upstate, she might come here for food that’s unpretentious and simple, hearty and filling. The pizza dough is the real star, thanks to a two-day fermentation and chef-owner Luigi Iasilli’s approach to fire: Despite an early career in
banking, Iasilli’s lifelong interest in the culinary process has shown him that a long fermentation and baking at a lower temperature (closer to 600 degrees than the popular 800) yields more bubbly and easily digestible dough. Whatever it adds in a few seconds of cooking time is worthwhile in its chewy, flavorful result.”
Spotlight: Steak tartare ($16), Bistro 42, 42 Classic St., Hoosick Falls. bistro42.net.
A Susie says: “Last year, the French-born chef Dominique Brialy, formerly of the Epicurean and The Century House in Latham, opened a restaurant that is both French and casual. A bar menu with les hotdogs and les burgers offers build-yourown bites along with a French riff on Canadian poutine and charcuterie and cheese boards, while the seasonal French dinner menu features escargot in garlic butter and a wonderfully garlicky black Angus steak tartare lit with Dijon mustard, onions and capers.”
Spotlight: Seven-course tasting menu ($105), Jack's Oyster House, 42 State St., Albany. jacksoysterhouse.com.
A Susie says: “The tasting menu allows the restaurant’s new executive chef,
Elliott Vogel, to creatively flex while respecting the traditions of a grandedame institution. Portions are surprisingly big, making it a good value despite the $105-per-head hit. The included photo shows beautifully clarified bison consommé as the prettiest moat for savory custard topped with Hackleback sturgeon caviar and 24karat gold leaf.”