Tivoli: A few blocks of Hudson Valley life
The tiny Dutchess County village is rich in culture, cuisine and boldface names
Its name stems from Roman botanical splendor, but Dutchess County’s Tivoli doesn’t exactly bear rows of Cyprus trees and overflowing fountains. This is still the Hudson Valley after all — off 9G at that. That said, this quaint village known for art and architecture is so beloved by locals that in the 1970s, its then-mayor gave it a slogan that stuck: “We like to say Tivoli backwards: I-lov-it.”
The mention of Tivoli still beckons the response, “I love it there,” even by those unfamiliar with the town’s trademark motto. Its residents are so passionate about the place, there’s a communal spirit of investment and stewardship.
Perhaps the most forwardfocused of these efforts has been undertaken by the reigning royalty of Tivoli, the Marden Family. The artists Helen and Brice Marden, who art critic Peter Schjedahl once called “the most profound abstract painter of the past four decades,” have been keeping historic local haunts alive by revamping these spaces for over a decade now.
It’s not hard to tell which brightly painted building has met the brush of Helen and Brice. Currently the Mardens are occupied with St. Sylvia’s Church, converting it to a cultural and community space.
In addition to being an artist enclave (sculptor and artist Kiki Smith lives nearby), Tivoli is where the cool kids of Bard hang out, on the other side of the intertidal marsh Tivoli Bays, but five minutes by car. While the notion of a “college town” is cause for fright by some, there’s nary a rowdy bar with sticky
floors in sight.
Instead, the town takes on more of a curious tone, a place where curio shops sit alongside culinary haunts, coexisting in a highly walkable downtown.
Tivoli is tiny, but rather relaxed
and is accessible by car or train. From New York City, Tivoli is about a two-hour drive or two hours and 40 minutes on public transport (Amtrak to Hudson followed by a 20-minute Uber ride). From Albany, it’s one hour by car or Amtrak, and a 20-minute taxi.
Morning
Tivoli Bread & Baking (75 Broadway) is the way to start the day, whether baguettes or scones are your morning starter. Both are equally excellent.
And while the caffeine keeps kicking in, head toward Tivoli Mercantile (60 Broadway) where a fun mix of everything from trinkets to fancy threads grace the racks and stacks of this boutique. Owner Jill TerMolen-Cornillon has made a name for herself with her curious eye, and the shop even has its own lifestyle journal.
Right next door is Winn’s (63 Broadway), which touts cute goods for the home and self run by a couple who also are the masterminds behind Tivoli General (54A Broadway) ,a shop for the culinarily inclined, and a great spot for salads or sandwiches to go (the pimento cheese with pickles and greens
is a standout).
Looking for something more substantial for lunch? Head to The Corner (53 Broadway), the ultra-chic restaurant inside the Hotel Tivoli, the Marden-owned and operated boutique hotel that casually places Jean Prouvé tables and Moroso stools alongside paintings by Kiki Smith and Julien Schnabel.
The Fior di Pesco purple marble bar is met by purple-tinted oak floors, and the drama of the dining room is matched by its menu. Mediterraneaninspired with great cocktails by NYC-speakeasy Employees Only, The Corner has big-city chops for a small-town setting.
Afternoon
Now that you’re well fed, walk it off through Tivoli Bays. Do not forget your Wellies or weatherproofed shoes here. Along its two miles of Hudson shoreline, this nature reserve has hiking trails as well as kayak launches and docks for fishing. It’s a rather wild gem with terrain more commonly found on coastal New England than off the Hudson.
Mid-afternoon is about when it’s time for Tivoli’s
biggest tourist attraction as of late: Fortune’s Ice Cream (55 Broadway). Breathless reviews of their unique flavors, like Maple Walnut Cider Donut and Lemon Verbena Husk Cherry, have made it all across the Hudson Valley. Food writer, tastemaker and Spencertown resident Ruth Reichl told us their buttermilk peach ice cream is the best ice cream she’s ever had.
And even if you think you couldn’t possibly eat any more, stick around Tivoli for dinner — we’ll tell you why in a second —
but first pull up a stool at Traghaven’s Pub (66 Broadway), which boasts the largest selection of whiskeys in the United States. The Tangent Theatre Company often posts up at the pub for performances, which is reason alone to hang out at the Hudson Valley’s “most unexpected” tavern, as they like to call themselves.
Evening
Plan for an early dinner at GioBatta Alimentari (69 Broadway), the casual Italian dining experience
from Francesco Buitoni (yes, of the very same Buitoni pasta family) Some may recall his first venture, Mercato in Red Hook, for its James Beard Award-worthy dinners, and might have cried when it closed. Today, Buitoni has infused GioBatta — which opened that fateful day in March where we all locked down — with the same level of cooking, but a more relaxed vibe.
Dining early would allow a visitto Kaatsbaan (120 Broadway) for a concert or a ballet. Since this cultural venue’s inception in 2019, it’s become the regional low-key, ultracool institution that draws exclusive projects and outfits like the upcoming three-show reunion of Matt Sweeney and Will Oldham on December 18-20. Nearby, Bard’s Fischer Center hosts classical concerts and other programming in its Frank Gehry-designed theater year-round.
Why not spend the night? Hotel Tivoli (53 Broadway) offers an unparalleled art-filled stay, and if you’re with a group, The Barn in Tivoli has become a landmark for its cozy and rustic country cabin feel.
Before departing the next day, check to see if the Tea House Press (14 North Road) is hosting a morning meditation or Sunday sitting meditation. Owner Bettina Mueller is a world-renowned gardener and Zen master, and right in the center of town. Afterwards, grab something warm to drink from All That Java (courtyard, behind Hotel Tivoli, 53 Broadway) before heading out of town.