Classic Ragu Bolognese

Active time: 2 hours; Total time: 5 hours

8 to 12 servings (makes about 6 cups)

A It's important to finely chop the onion, carrot and celery for the soffritto. The diminutive size, aided by the long, slow cooking, will allow the vegetables to melt into the ragu. Equally important are the ground beef and pork, which should be the best quality you can get, and are browned together slowly, about an hour. A pot wide enough to have plenty of surface area for the slow browning is essential to success.

A If you're using the ragu to dress tagliatelle or other pasta, when the ragu is finished and you're ready to serve, transfer the amount of sauce you need to a large saute pan, keeping it warm while the pasta cooks. When the pasta is nearly done, spoon a little of the pasta cooking water into the ragu and stir it in, then use tongs to transfer the tagliatelle into the sauce, toss gently and cook for another minute before serving.

A Storage Notes: Leftovers can be refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 2 months.

4 ounces pancetta, cut into

1⁄2-inch cubes

3 large garlic cloves 6 tablespoons unsalted

butter, divided

1 medium yellow onion (8 to 9 ounces), very finely chopped (see headnote) 1 medium carrot (4 to 5 ounces), very finely chopped (see headnote) 1 large or 2 smaller celery stalks with tender leaves, if any (about 3 ounces), very finely chopped

1 pound ground beef

(80/20, ideally grass-fed) 1 pound ground pork

(ideally pasture-raised) 3 cups good quality store-bought chicken broth or homemade beef stock

1 cup dry white wine, such

as pinot grigio 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 pinch grated nutmeg 1 cup whole milk 2 tablespoons tomato

paste

1 cup tomato puree (such as Pomi brand) or canned whole San Marzano tomatoes and juices, passed through a food mill or pureed in a food processor or blender

Freshly ground black

pepper

Freshly grated Parmigiano-reggiano cheese, for serving (optional)

A In a mini food processor, combine the pancetta and garlic, pulse a few times to break up the pieces, then process until it becomes a smooth paste.

A Scrape the paste into a large, wide Dutch oven or other heavy-bottomed pot, along with 2 tablespoons of the butter. Melt them together over medium heat, spreading the paste around with a wooden spoon. Cook until the fat is mostly rendered, about 4 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the onion, carrot and celery — the soffritto — and cook slowly over medium-low heat, stirring frequently enough so the soffritto doesn't brown — until the onion is soft, translucent and pale gold, about 15 minutes. A Add the ground beef and pork to the pot, increase the heat to medium, and break up the meat with a wooden spoon as much as possible. Once the meat starts to faintly sizzle, reduce the heat to medium-low. Let the meat brown slowly, stirring occasionally and continuing to break up any remaining clumps, for about 1 hour, until evenly browned and burnished.

A When the meat is nearly done browning, in a medium saucepan over high heat, heat the broth until simmering; cover and keep hot over low heat until ready to use.

A Increase the heat under the browned meat to mediumhigh and stir in the wine, scraping up any browned bits or deposits on the bottom of the pan. Cook and stir until the wine is mostly soaked in and evaporated, about 3 minutes. Stir in the salt and nutmeg, reduce the heat to medium-low and add the milk, cooking and stirring until it is barely visible, about 3 minutes.

A Measure 2 cups of the hot broth and dissolve the tomato paste in it. Stir the broth with paste into the meat sauce, then stir in the tomato puree. (Keep the unused broth handy in the pot in case you need to reheat it and add more to the sauce later.) Partially cover the pot and let the sauce simmer slowly and gently, stirring occasionally, until it is thick and all the components begin to melt together, about 2 hours.

A Stir the sauce — if it is starting to look at all dry, reheat the remaining chicken broth, ladle in a little more, about cup, and stir. Continue to simmer gently, uncovered, stirring occasionally and adding a little more hot broth or water as needed, until the vegetables have completely melted into the sauce, about 1 hour.

A Cut the remaining 4 tablespoons of butter into a few pieces and stir them into the sauce; add about 20 grinds of freshly ground black pepper and stir that in, too. Taste, and season with more salt and/or pepper, if desired. Recipe from Leslie Brenner, former Dallas Morning News restaurant critic and former food editor of the Los Angeles Times. Brenner is the founder of Cooks Without Borders.