Go ahead, braise pork on a weeknight

Multicooker makes process less of a weekend project

Despite its commercial success, the Instant Pot is not the most beloved vessel within food writing circles.

It lacks a certain romance of being "involved" with your food, artificially speeding up the natural course of the time it should take for a dish to braise. It doesn't look as romantic as a clay pot used for simmering beans or as eye-catching as a brightly colored Le Creuset passed on to you by your family. I won't try to convince the naysayers that the timesaving and hands-off benefits of the multicooker can be a godsend to working parents or busy folk, but those of us on The Washington Post Food desk who own an Instant Pot sing it praises. If you follow us on Instagram, you'll likely spot us regularly making brothy beans, sublime stews, saucy spaghetti, luscious risotto, creamy yogurt, silky dulce de leche - and even luxurious cheesecake. Whereas the jury may still be out on the trendy air fryers, one thing's for certain, the Instant Pot is here to stay.

That is perhaps because the Instant Pot isn't a one-trick pony, but has a wide range of capabilities. No need for a separate pressure cooker and slow cooker occupying double the space in your kitchen — Instant Pot or another multicooker can do the job of both, and then

some, with a smaller footprint. Plus, the Instant Pot, unlike most slow cookers, comes with a searing feature, a key selling point for anyone who prefers to wash fewer pans.

One of my favorite ways to use the multicooker is to take a large piece of meat and pressure-cook it in less than half the time it would take the conventional way. I stay away from such hearty meals in warmer months, but as the highs and lows for the day trend lower, I find myself craving more bellyfilling comfort. Such comfort is perfectly embodied by the possibilities that lie in a pork shoulder.