‘Tender’ plants need to come in for winter
QWe have enjoyed growing a couple of hibiscus in pots on our patio this summer. I think we heard that they’ll need to “come in” during the winter months. Is this true and what’s next to take good care of them?
A: This variety of hibiscus — H. rosa sinensis — is the tropical variety and, in our climate, yes, they need to come indoors for the winter months or they’ll die. The hibiscus family is huge, with types that can survive our winter season, just not this one.
First, inspect the plants closely to see if there are any critter colonies living on the plants. Look for clusters of aphids or webbing in all the nook and crannies. Be sure to inspect the underside of the leaves, too. Be sure to check out the pots, too. A wiping off with a soapy towel at this point wouldn’t hurt. Think “tidy.”
Then, since critters can be sneaky, I suggest several timed sprayings of a pesticide for house plants even if you don’t find any critters. Spray the plants you intend to bring in, remembering to spray the soil, too. Your goal is to have pest-free plants ready to come in no later than Oct. 15. Our average first frost has been charted soon after that date, so don’t get caught unprepared and in a frantic rush to save your plants.
Meanwhile, tend the plants as usual, plucking the spent blooms and keeping them adequately watered. You will want to prune the plants, taking them down about half the size they’ve grown this year but, with the weather being so nice for the time being, I’m waiting for a couple of more weeks before I sacrifice the new growth on my plants.
Now, it’s time to decide where you’re going to set your plants indoors. The tropical hibiscus is a sun lover, so you’re looking for the brightest spot indoors that you can offer. Southern or southwestern exposures are perfect. Remember that the light offered daily lessens as the seasons change, so what looks like a really hot spot now could be perfect. A really bright eastern or even northern exposure might work. Just decide and clear the appropriate area for them now. And all of this goes for all of your other “tender” plants you have growing outdoors now, too, such as bougainvillea, spider plants, hoyas, tender or medicinal aloes, even decorative succulent gardens that might not handle the winter weather. Q: What about geranium plants?
A: By all means, yes, you will want to bring in your potted geraniums! It is definitely time to start gleaning and cleaning up those guys.
Since geraniums usually are thick, plentiful growers it can be hard to rid them of pests, but you’ve got to give it your best effort. Really move the plant leaves around when you are spraying so you’re sure the whole plant is treated when you do spray your pesticide.
Aim to find them a spot indoors that will be as bright as possible with good air circulation. Some direct sun would be OK, but move them again if they look too hot once they’ve been in for a couple of weeks. Remember, plants you bring in shouldn’t be placed too close to heater registers or working fireplaces.
Q: We had several volunteer tree of heaven trees show up in the yard. In the past, I’ve tried cutting intruders
down and then later applied weed killer (the label said I could use it that way) to the cut-off trunks. It didn’t work really well and wonder if you have any other suggestions?
A: There are several weed killers that do say you can apply it to stumps, but I believe there were, or should have been, suggestions you missed.
Once a tree is cut down, that injury is sealed so quickly that, if you aren’t right there, the window of opportunity closes. Meaning, you cut the tree down, you paint the cut or quickly drill a hole or two depending on the size of the stump, and you get the herbicide applied liberally, usually undiluted, directly on the stump as soon as possible. If you don’t have a drill, use a stout 16 penny nail and make several holes near the outside edge into the stump.
But that’s the secret: You need to apply the herbicide-weed killer as soon as possible after cutting down the trees. Then, try your darnedest to remove any of the trees’ roots, too. A hatchet really helps dig and cut the roots into manageable pieces. If you can’t get the roots out, use the stout nail to puncture the root and pour the herbicide directly in the holes you make.
It’s a lot of work but, if you don’t get as much of the root as possible after cutting down the tree, they’ll try desperately to come back. And knowing the sturdiness of the tree of heaven, the more you cut off and down, the more seems to pop up elsewhere.