Marley’s offers Texas-style barbecue in new North Valley location
Marley’s offers Texas-style barbecue in new North Valley location
With its recent departure from the Northeast Heights, Marley’s Barbeque has transported culinary territory sought by devotees of barbecue across town to the North Valley. This new-to-Marley’s space that previously housed serene vegetarian, Indian and Himalayan dining spots has been transformed along the way by a coat of paint in a dreamy deep maroon and dark-red color scheme. Gone are the randomly hung barbed wire decorations intended to conjure Texas roots. Rather, the industrially clean lines and spacious windowed room are a big step up for the barbecue eatery.
Driving along north Fourth, it’s impossible to ignore the giant Heartland Cookers emitting clouds of smoke in back of Marley’s, and if the wind is right and you crack the window, it is possible to catch an intoxicating whiff of meaty oak.
If Marley’s bottled that fragrance, it could be marketed as the scent that drives men wild. The pit master patiently tends the operation, babying the briskets, which, after five hours of slow, smoky rotation are wrapped in butcher paper
and smoked another three hours to get just the right “do” on them.
The result is sliced brisket that is moist, permeated with smoky flavor, and Marleytender, outlined with a perfect rosy smoke ring and served fresh daily. Sandwiches ($9.95) come with a choice of homemade side — fresh coleslaw, beans, french fries that actually taste like potatoes, an elementary school comfort version of macaroni and cheese or bacon potato salad (not my favorite). Sandwiches on fresh-baked buns may also be ordered with mild savory pulled pork or hot links. The links are the pride of Marley’s. They come from Elgin, Texas, reputed to be the home of Texas’ finest sausage.
Sauce is served in two piquant styles — the house, my favorite, and the one intended to accompany pork — in plastic squeeze bottles, to be applied according to your taste.
Marley’s may have moved, but the menu is still the same. Barbecue plates ($9.95-$12.95) are served with your choice of two meats and two sides, with white bread available on request. You can’t go wrong with chicken, leg quarter or breast slowsmoked to juicy golden tenderness. And the ribs ($16.95 half-rack; $27.95 full rack), while not passing the “falling off the bone” test, are more than delicious.
Service is not topnotch; there are a few glitches that can be easily overlooked, and the waitstaff seems to be feeling its way. I am confident that with a little time it will all sync up.
Beer is “coming soon.”