STELLAR FARE
Five Star Burgers holds up well in a crowded field
As a New Mexican-owned burger chain, Five Star Burgers has some venerable competition. Blake’s Lotaburger, for example, was founded in 1952, and has spread the greenchile-cheeseburger gospel to two neighboring states and has dozens of outlets in New Mexico alone, all serving its signature burger with green chile.
Santa Fe Bite isn’t the flagship of even a mini-chain but, as the reincarnation of the legendary Bobcat Bite, once in the then-boondocks along Old Las Vegas Highway, it’s a “destination restaurant” known all over the local area, as is Española’s Dandy Burger.
All this is by way of saying that Five Star, with several locations in Albuquerque, Santa Fe and Taos, faces some competition for the loyalty of local burger fans. It should be said, too, that Five Star doesn’t serve the
4- or 5- ounce hand-held burger that’s the mainstay of Blake’s. But Five Star’s 10-ounce burger, knife-and-fork-worthy, is likewise the mainstay at Santa Fe Bite.
So we were prepared for a sit-down lunch, in a bar-and-grill-type of place more along the lines of television’s iconic Cheers tavern. And we got it, complete with sports network TV, a small and potentially friendly bar area that was all but deserted at lunchtime, and an unfussy but comfortable dining area.
My guests ordered burgers, and just to provide some variety, I opted for the grilled portobello mushroom sandwich. We split an order of fries ($3), served with a seriously spicy chipotle mayonnaise and ketchup for dipping. The three of us didn’t quite finish the entire basket of fries, but came close: these were hot and crisp, and truly enough for three.
The “burger of the month” special ($11) included diced jalapeño peppers, more of that chipotle mayonnaise and “ghost” cheese, which turned out to be a Monterey jack laced with ghost peppers, supposedly the hottest chile. My guest, a Santa Fe native, was unfazed by the heat and pronounced the burger “perfectly” cooked to her medium-rare specifications. The green chile cheeseburger ($10.50) drew similar approval from a North Valley native, and was likewise judged to be generous with the chile and cooked to the specified medium-well. Both were served with the obligatory lettuce, tomato and pickle on the side, although neither of my guests seemed interested.
My portobello sandwich ($9) was burger-like and very tasty. Billed as a stack, it was heaped with grilled onion and with a slathering of red chile mayonnaise on the whole wheat bun. Five Star deserves extra credit for its buns: the whole wheat version was sturdy and tasty, a grace note for the earthy portobello. The other burgers were served on better-than-average, artisan-style buns that were up to the task of holding 10 ounces of meat and trimmings together.
Five Star’s menu includes a panoply of salads ranging from tossed greens to Cobb, quinoa and farro concoctions, with everything from chicken and salmon to burger patties available as additions. Sandwiches range from pulled pork or salmon fillet to chicken breast or grilled cheese. And there are three full-meal options: a 12-ounce hamburger steak, fish and chips, or grilled salmon, all with two sides.
So I asked, how did Five Star compare?
Everybody readily admitted that the Lotaburger, as much as we all are sentimentally attached to it, wasn’t really competition for the type of burger Five Star offers. But, the Santa Fe native said, the Bite burger was juicier than Five Star’s offering. I had to agree. And Five Star’s service was not top-notch. Our waitress was gracious enough, but we had to flag her down at various junctures, even though the restaurant wasn’t jammed with customers.