Albuquerque Journal

Pub alternativ­e

Delish serves tasty, fancy fare for breakfast, brunch

- BY JASON K. WATKINS

Delish, a breakfast and brunch spot tucked away in a strip mall near Cottonwood Mall, is like a sports bar for ladies: instead of flat-screen TVs, there’s a fancy wall of repurposed, painted doors; instead of bar stools, there’s a large communal table under a crystal chandelier and strings of lights; and instead of hot wings, the menu is full of indulgent foods with European names.

Delish is, in fact, the answer to the neighborho­od pub: quieter, brighter, just as relaxing, and with much better food.

Some of the food may seem foreign, but the taste will be familiar: “Aebleskive­rs” are traditiona­l Danish pancakes shaped liked golf balls and are usually the province of bakeries and hipster food trucks, but Delish serves a version ($11) dusted with powdered sugar and set atop homemade strawberry jam that would make the Danes envious. An order comes with seven spherical pancakes and a side item, definitely a meal but also a surprising­ly shareable appetizer.

Skip the maple syrup on the aebleskive­rs and let the delicate taste and strawberry jam redefine the pancake for you.

For a stellar main course, try the croque madame, an open-faced sandwich served on a thick slice of toasted French bread, topped with thin slices of Boar’s Head ham, topped with cheese and a perfectly poached egg and then smothered in an amazingly rich hollandais­e sauce.

The sauce is housemade, and Delish isn’t sharing the recipe.

The croque madame ($11) is a delicious,

filling entree for any appetite, but the highlight of the dish turned out to be the side item: the breakfast potatoes.

Greasy spoons might burn the potatoes or concoct a version with undercooke­d, starchy insides, but Delish’s potatoes are spectacula­r. And perfect. Each big cube is baked to a crispy, dark brown with a soft, gooey interior. They’re like bits of fried mashed potatoes without the guilt of a deep fryer. Homemade ketchup is served on the side, but a better dipping sauce is the hollandais­e with its buttery, citrusy kick.

The service was excellent on recent a Friday afternoon, but the Sunday brunch crowd is probably considerab­le. Delish offers menu items for children, as well. Parking is ample.

The coffee and tea menu is extensive, with exotic offerings like oatmeal

latte; also available are specialty drinks, including Rocky Mountain Soda, and lots of local beer and wines.

Delish is an offshoot of the Sassy Apron, a highend catering company with headquarte­rs next door, so large groups or off-site events are welcome.

For an indulgent breakfast or brunch with European flair and a cozy interior, Delish is a great bet. You’ll leave feeling full — and a little fancier.

 ?? JASON K. WATKINS/FOR THE JOURNAL ?? Aebleskive­rs are traditiona­l Danish pancakes, and Delish serves seven of them dusted with powdered sugar and set atop homemade strawberry jam.
JASON K. WATKINS/FOR THE JOURNAL Aebleskive­rs are traditiona­l Danish pancakes, and Delish serves seven of them dusted with powdered sugar and set atop homemade strawberry jam.
 ?? JASON K. WATKINS/FOR THE JOURNAL ?? The croque madame at Delish is an open-faced sandwich served on a thick slice of toasted French bread, topped with thin slices of Boar’s Head ham, topped with cheese and a poached egg.
JASON K. WATKINS/FOR THE JOURNAL The croque madame at Delish is an open-faced sandwich served on a thick slice of toasted French bread, topped with thin slices of Boar’s Head ham, topped with cheese and a poached egg.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from United States