Delicious food keeps on trucking in City Different
Grab a fave or try a new flavor
One of the regular trucks parked in the Meow Wolf parking lot is Taqueria Gracias Madre — and people ordering there may find themselves saying “gracias” to the cooks.
The menu is surprisingly long for a food truck, although in many cases it’s simply a matter of reworking the same ingredients in somewhat different presentations, such as quesadillas, tortas, gorditas, tacos, burritos, burgers and plain ol’ sandwiches. Oh, yeah, a couple of breakfast offerings — a bowl and a burrito — also are available for late risers. The recipes, according to the truck’s Facebook page, originate in northcentral Mexico.
One of my long-time favorites is fish tacos, so I tried the ones offered here ($10). Four small tacos come with the order, as well as a spicy red sauce and lime wedges on the side. The pieces of fried white fish (nonbreaded) have a sprinkling of red chile powder on them for just a whiff of heat, while red cabbage, shredded lettuce, cilantro, tomatoes and pineapple fill the folded tortillas. A mayo-based white sauce also added to the flavor and moistness.
All together, the tacos have a subtle sweetness with just a smidgeon of heat — but you could add more with the separate hot sauce. And, not to niggle, but one of the tacos could have had a tad more fish in it.
I also checked out a quesadilla, deciding on the barbacoa filling. The quesadilla was cut into four quarters for easy eating by hand. The beef filling was moderately fatty but, together with the slow cooking, that meant it melted in my mouth with barely a need to chew. Melted cheese and cooked onions added to the richness, while the addition of a judicial amount of green chile (red was also an option) gave an occasional spark of heat.
Both a mayo-based mound and guacamole were offered for dipping or slathering on the side, with one offering coolness and the other a peppery avocado delight.
For a slightly more Spanish twist on a food truck, I visited El Sabor Spanish Tapas y Masss parked across from Kaune’s in the empty lot that’s becoming a food truck haven. I was charmed when I saw that the posterboard menu listed Ever Paz as the executive chef, but it made sense when I found out he previously had been a chef at El Farol.
That also can help explain the heaping helping of flavor that came with the offerings I sampled.
The alcachofas (panfried artichokes, $7.75), while listed as tapas (small plates), came in a serving that two easily could share as an appetizer, or one could enjoy them as a small meal or large snack. The large, halved artichoke hearts were not breaded, a plus in my book, and were covered with a mixture of tomatoes, olives, Parmesan cheese (gently sprinkled) and parsley. It also tasted as if olive oil may have been part of the mix.
I also thought I saw capers in the mix, and one written description of the dish said they were included, but when I bit into one, it tasted like black pepper exploding in my mouth. That explained a puzzlingly hot taste that appeared in some bites. I don’t know if that was a mistake, but it didn’t take away from my overall pleasure in the dish. (I just tried not to chew on them any more.)
My main choice was one of the daily specials, shrimp tacos ($12). They were definitely a winner, with four corn-tortilla tacos wrapped around a generous portion of shrimp — a step up in size from the super-tiny ones that sometimes appear in salads. A thin layer of melted cheese lined the tortilla and what I guessed was a sprinkling of red chile offered a light heat. A slice of avocado topped each taco, with lettuce, tomatoes and a tomatillo sauce offered on the side.
The satisfying combinations of flavors make me want to return to try additional menu items, which include tapas, burgers, hot sandwiches, burritos and more.