Albuquerque Journal

Thai Boran serves excellent curries, other traditiona­l dishes

New restaurant serves excellent curries, other traditiona­l dishes

- BY JASON K. WATKINS FOR THE JOURNAL

Among the many charms of Thai Boran, a brandnew restaurant just off Coors NW serving high-quality Thai cuisine, is its proximity to Flix Brewhouse. Diners can enjoy a curry and a beer, then catch a movie and another beer.

Another charm is its relative obscurity — it’s been operating for only about four months, according to a waiter — which helps ensure you can get a table at this tiny 40-seat eatery without much of a wait. But the biggest charm is the food itself, expertly prepared with fresh ingredient­s and packing a respectabl­e kick.

During a recent weekday visit, the restaurant was nearly empty, so food arrived promptly. The chicken satay skewers ($6.95) arrived first and were a good indication of the quality of the rest of the meal — four pieces of chicken breast are marinated and grilled, then served on buttered toast with a homemade peanut sauce and a marinated cucumber salad.

The peanut sauce was excellent, both sweet and salty,

but the best part was the cucumbers, tiny cubes gingerly sliced and marinated in vinegar and spices, then topped with fresh strips of onions. Overall, it was an excellent appetizer, perfect for two or three people.

The panang curry ($10.95) is just as good: a huge portion of spicy red curry smothering thinly sliced chicken breast and served with steamed white jasmine rice. Peas, bell pepper and coconut milk give this dish a distinctiv­e flavor, and the “medium” Thai spice gives it a noticeable, if not overwhelmi­ng, kick.

We New Mexicans think we invented spicy cuisine, but then we’re met by a Thai chef who says “think again.” Diners can order their curry mild, medium, hot, or Thai hot, but the “medium” was spicy enough to get my attention. I imagine the Thai hot might cost you a few taste buds.

The panang curry was a perfect dish: filling, spicy, incredibly fresh, prepared with care.

And the service was as good as the food; my waiter refilled my drink even after I told him not to bother, which was appreciate­d. A young family with a monthsold baby walked in and received service, then their food, almost immediatel­y. The entire restaurant was spotless and peaceful, with the Dave Matthews Band playing softly in the background.

Not a bad place for a peaceful meal.

Dinner at Thai Boran is also affordable, and you walk away with leftovers; a couple could easily dine for less than $30, even with drinks, and plates are quite sharable. If you’ll be catching a movie after the meal, you’ll appreciate the value of this place even more.

At four months, a restaurant this size might be sinking or treading water right now, but judging by the quality of the food, Thai Boran is doing just swimmingly.

 ?? JASON K. WATKINS/FOR THE JOURNAL ?? The panang curry at Thai Boran is a spicy red curry smothering thinly sliced chicken breast and served with steamed white jasmine rice. Peas, bell pepper and coconut milk give this dish a distinctiv­e flavor.
JASON K. WATKINS/FOR THE JOURNAL The panang curry at Thai Boran is a spicy red curry smothering thinly sliced chicken breast and served with steamed white jasmine rice. Peas, bell pepper and coconut milk give this dish a distinctiv­e flavor.
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 ?? JASON K. WATKINS/FOR THE JOURNAL ?? The chicken satay skewers are made of four pieces of chicken breast that are marinated and grilled, then served on buttered toast with a homemade peanut sauce and a marinated cucumber salad.
JASON K. WATKINS/FOR THE JOURNAL The chicken satay skewers are made of four pieces of chicken breast that are marinated and grilled, then served on buttered toast with a homemade peanut sauce and a marinated cucumber salad.

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