Coffee shop apologizes for celebrating gentrification
Ink! Coffee managed to exist north of downtown Denver for just short of three years without instigating a racial conflagration.
As the Denver Public Library will tell you, the Five Points area used to be home to virtually every black resident of the city — not always by their own choice. The neighborhood became a black cultural center, struggled economically for decades, and then in the 21st century saw a sudden influx of wealth and prestige (e.g., trendy coffee shops) and the corresponding departure of black families who had built the place.
That sad irony of history is commonly called gentrification and it’s played out in some form in almost every major city in the United States. Which is to say it caused no great furor when Ink opened in long-since gentrified Five Points in December 2014.
It was one coffee shop among many, and the latest expansion for a large Colorado chain. It was bright red and shiny metal, with a sign that proclaimed: “Coffee. Above all else.”
No uproar then, or in 2015, or 2016. Or for most of this year — until Wednesday afternoon, when a sign spotted outside read: Happily Gentrifying The Neighborhood Since 2014.
“BAD. W.T.F.,” asked Five Points local Ru Johnson when she shared the photo on Twitter.
Countless people asked basically the same question, and it took all of an afternoon for the Larimer Street coffee shop with cortados and Brazilian Conquista beans to become seen as a symbol of racial privilege and arrogance.
On Twitter, Ink was accused of “gleefully colonizing” Five Points and of being “steeped in white supremacy.” It was immediately and spontaneously boycotted by many.
The NAACP demanded the sign be removed, though a skateboarder stole it first, according to the Denver Post.
And within hours of the sign’s discovery, Ink began to issue explanations that in some ways only made things worse.
The company’s first attempt was a joke. Ink! Coffee had apparently drank too much coffee, and therefore accidentally celebrated gentrification. Seconds later, the company offered a “sincere” apology. “Our (bad) joke was never meant to offend our vibrant and diverse community,” it tweeted. “We should know better. We hope you will forgive us.”
Many would not.
“It’s not that simple,” as one commentator put it. “Y’all need to be shut down.”
By the next day, someone had smashed out a window and spray painted “White Coffee” across Ink’s storefront, the Denver Post reported. “There was a smaller, more profane message written on the store’s main sign,” the newspaper added.
So Ink tried yet another apology. This time the chain’s founder Keith Herbert published a thick mea culpa on Facebook, writing that he had thought a proudly gentrifying coffee shop would be seen as a good thing, but now understood his error.
Some were appeased by the contrition, and wished the coffee shop good luck surviving the PR storm.
One woman even wrote that she had liked the sign, and she hoped gentrification would soon come to her neighborhood.