Small, casual Kaktus Brewing offers tasty food, beers
Small, casual Kaktus Brewing offers tasty food, beers
“It’s unique.”
That’s how my brother described Kaktus Brewing Co., a “nano-brewery” between the Bernalillo Acequia and Interstate 25 that focuses on small batches, gourmet pizzas and wild game meats.
“The food is really good, but the atmosphere is … unique,” he said. He had stopped a time or two on his way through town and remembered the experience fondly, so the recommendation was welcomed and the description piqued my curiosity.
The brewery is at the end of a short dirt driveway and has no clear entrance. As newcomers, we wandered around until we found an empty table. The whole place is smaller than a house, with little attention paid to decor or atmosphere, save for a few acrylic paintings and ceiling rafters wallpapered with dollar bills. I remembered the word “commune” when my brother was describing the place, so I knew I wasn’t lost. The only way this place could be more casual was if there were livestock in the room. The food, though, is very good.
Kaktus Brewing does pizza the best, but it also serves a few types of unexpected meats like wild boar and bison. Their primary focus is on the beers, several of which have earned them awards and a loyal following.
To start, my guest and I shared the chopped salad ($9), and it was delicious. Organic greens, pine nuts, a light vinaigrette, sun-dried tomatoes, and olive tapenade are tossed together and served on a paper plate. The dressing was subtle and wonderful, and every ingredient in the salad was fresh and crisp.
We split a couple of main courses, starting with the buffalo Frito pie ($6.50), which was great: a paper bowl full of corn chips are smothered in homemade bison chile and then sprinkled with cheese and onions. It was hearty and spicy and didn’t taste much different from beef chile.
We shared the “Chicken Bock, Bock” pizza ($15), which was also great. It came with cubes of free-range organic chicken, artichoke hearts, sun-dried tomatoes, mozzarella cheese and basil pesto sauce. The pesto gave the pizza a pine-nut flavor, which went excellently with the sun-dried
tomatoes. The best part was the crust, made from scratch and cooked evenly without being soggy or crunchy.
For a tiny brewery, this is a darned-good pizza.
And because it’s a brewery, I couldn’t leave without trying one of the signature beers. I’m a huge fan of IPAs; the more bitter and eccentric the flavor, the better. Kaktus Brewing’s IPA didn’t disappoint — it was about an 80 on the bitterness scale, and it was a nice contrast to the spice in the Frito pie.
We finished the meal with a dessert pretzel ($5) rolled by hand and dipped in cinnamon and sugar, and then served with a house “candy sauce,” which is just icing and more cinnamon. It was tasty and, like everything else, incredibly filling. A great way to finish the meal.
The service on a weeknight wasn’t particularly fast, and the wait staff seemed slightly overwhelmed, so be ready for a more relaxing than rushed dinner. Kids are welcome, but the only items that might appeal strongly to young children are hot dogs, unless their palates are sophisticated enough to appreciate elk, wild boar, duck or bison. A large patio with a wood-burning stove and space heaters makes an excellent airy hangout, especially for larger group (the inside dining room accommodates only a dozen or so people).
A smaller Nob Hill location is open with a slightly different menu but essentially the same brews on tap. That location has an espresso bar and a rooftop patio. Prices are fair at both, and dinner for two at either won’t break the bank. And because they use fresh and organic ingredients, a big meal doesn’t weigh you down with grease or calories.
Kaktus Brewing Co. (“Balanced Beer, Balanced Life” is its slogan) is so laid-back you’ll feel less like you’re dining out and more like you’re having dinner and drinks with “unique” friends.