Lighten up with a salad
Dear Chef: The farmers markets are now open. There are all types of beautiful greens, radishes, carrots and other late spring vegetables. What to do with all of this fun stuff? Spring Has Sprung
Dear Spring: The return of local produce is one of my favorite rites of late spring! After a long winter of heavy meals and less than enticing produce, I’m ready to go fresh and light. That means grilled fish and meats, rosé wine, and salads — especially salads!
To make great salads you need two things, super fresh produce and a bright and lightly flavored dressing. The produce is easy this time of year. Every market is full of arugula, kale, baby lettuces and a variety of crispy spring vegetables to add texture and variety to salads. During the winter I might turn to more satiating dressings like Caesar or blue cheese, in spring and summer I turn to vinaigrettes.
The great thing about vinaigrettes is they are easy to make and homemade is better than anything you can buy. Just pull out items from your pantry (and maybe a few fresh herbs from the windowsill) and you’re ready to go. Vinaigrettes don’t require special equipment either. I just use a jar with a tight-fitting lid.
First, a vinaigrette only requires a few ingredients to be good. Starting with an acid. The most common acidic ingredient for dressings is vinegar, but you can use fresh lemon or lime juice. Any vinegar you have on hand will do. In summer I like red or white wine vinegar or maybe a rice vinegar. These vinegars keep the fresh produce as the star but add that “pop” we want from the vinaigrette. If you like bolder flavor try sherry or balsamic vinegar.
In addition to acid you need quality oil. I favor neutral oils such as olive (not extra virgin), canola, avocado or grapeseed. If you want stronger flavors use highly-flavored oils like extra virgin olive, sesame or coconut. Whichever oil you choose, make sure it’s fresh. Probably the only way to ruin these dressings is to use old, off-flavor oils.
Other than vinegar and oil you can pretty much add any flavorings you have on hand. My favorites are Dijon mustard, garlic, fresh herbs and fruit. I mix and match my flavors to enhance the salad ingredients. I add fresh raspberries to balance the peppery flavor of arugula. Or I might use Dijon mustard to balance the sweetness of peas. Just remember, there is not a right or wrong answer. Simply combine things you like and
you will have a great salad.
With all of your ingredients at hand, what’s next? There are just a few guidelines to keep in mind:
A ratio of three-parts oil to one-part vinegar is the starting point for every vinaigrette. If the vinaigrette tastes a bit flat and flavorless add a bit more vinegar. If your jaw clenches up from the acidity, some more oil will improve the balance.
Add salt and pepper to both the vinaigrette and the greens to balance the seasoning.
Add flavorings, such as Dijon, herbs or spices, in small amounts.
If you use dried herbs or spices, your vinaigrette will have more flavor if you make it a couple hours ahead.
Add everything to the jar, twist the lid and shake vigorously.
Taste! Because all of the other elements bring flavors to the salad make sure to taste your vinaigrette with pieces of your salad to get a true idea of the flavor.
Make small adjustments and taste again.
Make only enough dressing for a few days. Keep it fresh — especially if you use fresh garlic or herbs (they won’t last).
Always shake before you use the vinaigrette. Oil and vinegar don’t mix, so to bring the dressing together you will need to shake it before each use.
While you won’t really need recipes if you follow these suggestions, I’m offering a simple one to get you started.
DIJON AND TARRAGON VINAIGRETTE
2 tablespoons white wine vinegar 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard 1 teaspoon dried tarragon or 1 tablespoon fresh tarragon, roughly chopped 1 clove of garlic, minced Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
6 tablespoons olive oil
Add all ingredients to jar with tight fitting lid. Close tightly and shake vigorously. If using dried herbs, let the dressing sit for a couple of hours. Taste with at least one element of your salad. Adjust flavor with more vinegar, oil or salt.
The dressing can be made a few days ahead. Keep refrigerated. If the oil hardens, remove from the refrigerator 30 minutes before you need it.