Albuquerque Journal

New-look Los Amigos a friendly spot

- BY T.M. COLLINS

The Good Doctor was off last week, so I went alone to another “family” restaurant of the Mexican and northern New Mexican persuasion. Hey, you say. This will be the third Old or New Mexican establishm­ent in a row. Why?

Because I can. In fact, I may do only Mexican places, there are a lot, until every immigrant family separated at the southern border has been reunited.

That said, Los Amigos Restaurant on Rodeo Road reopened in the spring after being closed for about 6 months for a remodel and renovation, with a new kitchen, some nice flagstone out in front, a fresh paint job, and bright, shiny red and yellow “Los Amigos” signage. Which is a very good thing since the “road improvemen­ts” and expansions over the years have left the nice old adobe next to the Chevron gas station at the southwest corner of Richards and Rodeo rather street-locked and nearly invisible at road grade.

Los Amigos is bustling on a Sunday evening. Kids, teenagers, older folks at tables in two cheery, cozy rooms and a big, bright, open and airy screened-in porch.

The day’s breakfast, lunch and dinner specials are all available at 6 p.m. Though the dinner Pork Chop Plate ($14.99), two pork chops with mashed potatoes, gravy, grilled vegetables and garlic toast, sounded (and looked) most appetizing, I went for the lunch special: Steak Enchiladas ($15.99), with rice, beans, tortillas or sopapilla.

Los Amigos offers limited, but satisfying, appetizers, like a Quesadilla ($8.99), Nachos ($9.99) and Chile Cheese Fries ($7.99), but I settled for a compliment­ary basket of red, blue corn and plain corn tortilla chips, and killer spicy house-made red salsa.

I’m not sure what I was expecting, but the lunch special arrived as something of a surprise, and very pleasant one at that. These were not “steak enchiladas,” as I was imagining, but cheese enchiladas topped, and obscured, by a big, juicy ribeye steak done medium rare. A bit overwhelmi­ng at first sight and at first bite, but patiently and with great pleasure, I enjoyed it entirely. Against My normal policy, I ordered “Christmas” chile and while the home-made red is a dusky, earthy hit, the house green chile is muy picante and up there with the best I’ve ever had in 40 years. And just to make

sure I wasn’t mistaken, I got a cup of the Green Chile Stew ($6.99) and, sure enough, the stew is up there with the best I’ve ever enjoyed. And with a $3.50 cerveza in a chilled glass? Paradiso!

I left overly satisfied, too vain to take advantage of the 15 percent Sunday night senior discount and ready to enjoy a Tuesday buy-one-get-one-half-off night!

Los Amigos is a bit tricky to spot and get to, and so worth it.

 ?? T.M. COLLINS/FOR JOURNAL NORTH ?? Don’t be overwhelme­d — the Steak Enchiladas at Los Amigos is a juicy rib-eye steak on top of cheese enchiladas, and it’s good.
T.M. COLLINS/FOR JOURNAL NORTH Don’t be overwhelme­d — the Steak Enchiladas at Los Amigos is a juicy rib-eye steak on top of cheese enchiladas, and it’s good.

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