Albuquerque Journal

It isn’t just for vegans

Firm or silken tofu plays well with cheese, eggs, and even meat

- BY KRISTEN HARTKE THE WASHINGTON POST

Here’s the trouble with tofu, at least to some Western eaters: You can’t dip it in nacho cheese sauce. Or can you? Even as people have become accustomed to the idea of drinking soy milk lattes, the idea of eating tofu — which is, after all, just coagulated soy milk — can be a non-starter for many who see it as a weirdo ingredient limited to vegans or championed by Hippies Without Tastebuds.

In Western cuisine, tofu is not only viewed with skepticism, it tends to be practicall­y nonexisten­t in our culinary repertoire. Rebranding it as “bean curd” hasn’t really helped its cause, either. But once we look at tofu as a protein that can be married with many other kinds of “typical” American ingredient­s, including cheese, eggs and, yes, bacon, then there is no excuse not to give tofu pride of place on the plate.

For those who want to increase their intake of healthy, plant-based proteins without necessaril­y giving up eggs, cheese and meat, creatively combining tofu with more familiar ingredient­s can be a painless, and tasty, way to take a more flexitaria­n approach. Extra-firm tofu can be easily crumbled into ground beef for hamburgers or thinly sliced and layered with Gruyere for a new take on a croque monsieur.

The trick is in understand­ing that all tofu is not created equal.

Waterpacke­d firm tofu can be a marvel of versatilit­y, whether marinated, grilled, baked, fried or pureed.

Because tofu is naturally mild, it takes well to marinades and is easily reimagined in dishes traditiona­lly made with chicken or even pork. Cut firm tofu into wedges and soak in tangy buttermilk before flouring, frying and slathering in a spicy buffalo

wing sauce, served with a creamy dill-flecked blue cheese dressing on the side. Marinate slices in Tabasco-and-honey-spiked soy sauce, then broil and top with a poached egg for Sunday brunch. Toss chilled tofu cubes with lemon juice and cracked black pepper to accompany bacon, hardboiled eggs and avocado in a twist on a traditiona­l Cobb salad.

Silken tofu, the shelfstabl­e product found in aseptic packaging, is the perfect base for a rich chocolate mousse or savory egg-free mayonnaise.

It is easily adapted for use in cheesecake and pudding recipes, providing a lighter take on creamy desserts that can be a godsend for anyone with a sweet tooth who wants to have their cake, and eat it, too — but with fewer calories, less fat and more protein.

So pile that tofu high, Dagwood-style, onto your favorite deli sandwich. Wrap it in bacon, as the Japanese do, or whip it into a rummy piña colada. Splash it with Sriracha, coat it in cheddar, barbecue it on a bun.

As for dipping it in nacho cheese sauce? Don’t mind if I do.

LINGUINE WITH BROCCOLI AND TOFU

4 to 6 servings

One 1-pound block extrafirm tofu 1 large head broccoli Salt, as needed 1 pound dried linguine

½ cup olive oil 3 cloves garlic, minced Freshly ground black pepper, as needed

¾ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

Drain the tofu and pat dry with several paper towels, pressing down lightly to help remove excess water, then cut into ½-inch cubes.

Trim the broccoli by removing the thickest part of the stem, then cut the thin stems and florets into bite-size pieces.

Bring a pot of water to a boil over high heat. Add a generous pinch or two of salt and the pasta; cook for about 6 minutes. Add the broccoli pieces to the pot (along with the pasta); cook for about 3 additional minutes, or until the pasta is al dente and the broccoli is bright green and just tender. Drain and then rinse the pasta and broccoli right away with cool water. Drain well.

Heat half the oil in the same pot you used to cook the linguine and broccoli, over medium-high heat. Once the oil shimmers, add the cubed tofu and stir to coat. Cook for a few minutes, stirring frequently, until it is golden brown and lightly crisped all over.

Reduce the heat to medium, then return the drained pasta and broccoli to the pot, along with the remaining ¼ cup of oil and the minced garlic. Toss for a few minutes until all the ingredient­s are well incorporat­ed and warmed through. Taste and season with salt and pepper, as needed.

Serve right away, topping each portion with up to 2 heaping tablespoon­s of the Parm.

PER SERVING (based on 6): 570 calories, 22 g protein, 62 g carbohydra­tes, 27 g fat, 5 g saturated fat, 10 mg cholestero­l, 320 mg sodium, 4 g dietary fiber, 2 g sugar

 ?? DEB LINDSEY/FOR THE WASHINGTON POST ?? Linguine With Broccoli and Tofu is a low-key introducti­on to tofu, especially because the addition of Parmigiano-Reggiano brings out tofu’s natural nuttiness.
DEB LINDSEY/FOR THE WASHINGTON POST Linguine With Broccoli and Tofu is a low-key introducti­on to tofu, especially because the addition of Parmigiano-Reggiano brings out tofu’s natural nuttiness.

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