Albuquerque Journal

Now is a good time to relocate lavender plant

Full-grown shrub will need similar environmen­t to thrive

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Q: We have a lavender plant that has outgrown its spot in our garden. We want to relocate it. Please advise us when the appropriat­e time to move it and the best environmen­t (sun, soil, water, etc.) it needs. We live in Sandia Heights. — R&P, Albuquerqu­e

A: From all I’ve read, now would be a good time to “relocate” the lavender since the soil is still warm but it’s not brutally hot. I giggled with your question about what lavender needs, especially since you’ve grown one so successful­ly but there are a few “don’ts” as to the care of lavender. First I thought you could treat it like a lot of other perennial plants. Meaning use a really sharp spade and literally slice it in half and then move it. But with research that’s a wrong thought. At this point in its life it’s grown from being a “perennial” to being a “woody perennial shrub.” So you can’t slice it in half and expect it to live. You’ll want to move the lavender as one mass. That’s “don’t” number one!

Second “don’t” is to aim for a relocation spot that doesn’t mimic its home now to the best of your ability. Is it tucked into a sheltered, warm and sunny spot? Then that’s the same sort of environmen­t where it’ll do best when you transplant this lavender.

The hole you’ll plant in should be composed of fairly fertile, yet welldraini­ng soil. The size of the hole will depend on how big the plant is once you’ve dug it up. You don’t want the relocation hole too big, but it’ll be best if the ground where the hole is dug is roughed up. That way the transplant will be better able to push roots into the earth. But that’s where it gets sticky. Don’t make the hole too big or too fertile. Since this lavender has naturalize­d, so to speak, it’ll want the same type of ground to settle in! Be sure to plant the lavender to the same depth. No deeper, no shallower, OK?

As for the water, you’ll want to soak the planting in deeply (slowly) so the plant settles. Consider an applicatio­n of properly diluted root stimulator after the first watering to help diffuse any transplant shock and encourage root developmen­t.

Through the course of this coming winter make sure the transplant is never allowed to dry out. If that means water every 10 days, do so. But then flip side — lavender doesn’t want to be kept soggy either. Use your best judgment and the weather as a guide as to a watering schedule. If it stays dry then you must water.

If you’ve decided to plant more lavender remember they grow well in light shade to full sun environmen­ts. I wouldn’t suggest planting on a northern exposure since it might not be sunny enough for one. Also keep them out of spots that’ll be buffeted by brutal winds. They seem to perform better if given a bit of shelter.

So, now that you know what I know if you have a “proper space” move the lavender, as a whole, and know you’ve done all you can to continue enjoying this lovely plant!

Happy Diggin’ In!

Tracey Fitzgibbon is a certified nurseryman. Send your garden-related questions to Digging In, Albuquerqu­e Journal, P.O. Drawer J, Albuquerqu­e, NM 87103, or to features@ abqjournal.com.

 ??  ?? Tracey Fitzgibbon
Tracey Fitzgibbon

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